Sunday, January 31, 2010

Bits and Pieces

Sunday January 31st

Greetings on this Sabbath day. We are doing classes the same as always today so it's hard to tell the difference from any other day of the week.

I have just had the greatest fun. In conversation with the Psychology Prof. (Stewart Schwartz) last night George mentioned that we did patient simulations at McMaster. Almost without a moments thought he turned to me and said What do you do? I named a few cases and conditions and he said Would you come and be manic for my Bipolar class? This is one of my favourites because you can take it from and to the top with a certain amount of freedom. I asked when and he said Be in my class at 8 am tomorrow morning. Well! I honestly expected a little more time to think about it: this was at supper.

So after a sleepless night of wondering how and what to do I did appear in the class on time. We had pre-arranged the moment when I would interrupt him and it was to be after the discussion on Depression, second power-point slide in, at the beginning of the discussion on Mania. So I tensely sat through the first part of the class feeling quite apprehensive. There were about twenty five students and one Life Long Learner whom I didn't really know. As soon as the second slide on Mania was shown I shouted from the back"You know Dr Schwartz your class is really depressing!" Stewart looked wonderfully shocked...he really didn't know what I was going to say, so I said that the slide itself was hopelessly unexciting (it happened to be one in small print which no one likes) and I added "I could probably teach a better class than you anyway because I know alot about this stuff, should I come up and try?" he sort of swallowed a Yes (actually he was very good!) and up I went. I looked out of the window suddenly and asked if anyone could tell me whether "those birds are albatrosses or red footed boobies", he said 'What?! red footed what?"so I explained how important it was to 'my husband' that I got my birds right. I made up a fun story, partly true, about George never getting me a birthday present and how in Waikiki I had taken off and 'done' the jewelry shops buying a diamond pendant...and earrings. (not true) How much did that cost you he asked so I just said 'You don't want to know. I used a credit card so it's OK, but I'm in alot of trouble with my husband.' I also described the really cute guy I had met in a Waikiki bar but added 'You're cute too...did anyone ever tell you you looked like Woody Allen?" which he does. I held my breath ...had I gone too far? After all he might absolutely loathe Woody Allen and his looks...fortunately the class laughed and so did he. I should say that most of the students were still looking gob smacked and very uneasy that this dreadful woman had simply stood up and taken over the class.

Anyway to cut a long story short I eventually apologised and said I must leave. He followed me out and then took me back in and introduced me. I always love the part where I return to normal and this was no exception. The students were sooo relieved! I gave the SP programme at McMaster a great plug saying that Mac had started the whole concept but confessing that the two people who created it were actually American which they were. Heavens that was over 30 years ago! So a fun start to the day.

Last night for our Sino/American relations class I watched two movies, one about Mao Tsetung and the other fascinating and rather amusing one Nixon's visit to China in 1967. I enjoy these so much having lived through those times and thinking while I was doing whatever, they were doing this! Even though we lost Jonathon in Hilo to return to his home in the US, I am still thoroughly enjoying the classes with the remaining two professors, John Israel from the University of Virginia and Professor Shun from China. We were hearing yesterday about the Taiwan situation when Obama's decision to send money for arms to Taiwan was a news alert. One can't help wondering why this action is repeated time and again almost to rile China. I want to ask today whether there are any parallels to be drawn with Hong Kong which has been largely left alone by the mainland government because it is such a money maker. Next class this afternoon.

Later: 15:00 hrs here....putting our clocks back again tonight.

Just to put you right in the picture, it is a sunny day with some puffy clouds but lots of blue patches (enough for a pair of sailors' trousers I think), the sea has a few white caps but is fairly calm and there is a light breeze.

During our Sino American lecture I'm afraid to say I almost nodded off three times, my head actually fell forward and I was right in Professor Shun's line of vision. That'll teach me to lie awake worrying about 'simulating'! I really do enjoy these as I said and it was interesting to hear another (two versions) of Nixon's visit.

Did I mention that both my eldest daughter Sheona and I saw Chou en Lai "in the flesh" and I've always had a great respect for him. When we lived in Accra and Sheona was a toddler, the compound in which we lived was right across the road from the Party Headquarters. Kwame Nkruma was president of Ghana at the time and the murals on the walls depicted him as Osagyfo, which is what he was called. It means 'redeemer' and he was painted as a sort of Christ. I used to wheel Sheona around in her stroller as though the place was an art gallery. Anyway Ghana received visits from many famous people and they were always driven to the headquarters. We stood and watched Chou en Lai, the first Russian woman astronaut, Svetlana something-or-other, and best of all Gene Kelly! Accra fell in love with him and they serenaded him in the streets, hotels and bars all night. There wasn't I must confess the same wild enthusiasm for the other two!

I'm going to be reading the two plays written by our on board playwrights with the other students in the class this evening. I'll be really interested to hear their thoughts. Sally remember how I hated Lunch Hour for the play reading committee....how very wrong I was!

Liz, Audrey and George are all attempting to fill in immigration forms for Japan and it seems are having some difficulty. George is going to pop down to give them a hand but from the look of his face (and there is a guide on our TV set) it won't be any time soon. Aren't I lucky I just get to chat with all of you.

I'm off now to continue my novel....I am really deep in Vietnam which seems to have been a dangerous place not so long ago. This was written after a return visit in 1997. I remember our invitation last year to join the crowd at a communist annual celebration in Cat Tien National park. They were having the best time of the year obviously and knocking back shots of some strong liquor like Saki or rice wine and getting louder and happier by the second but they were very friendly! They kept shouting this one word and we wondered what it meant and asked our guide "Drink!" he said.

I think I'll publish this and have a short sleep before our five o'clock happy hour in the bar....not really, we do have to pay eventually. More tomorrow.

Special message for Liam, Katie and Bryn: Have I told you lately that I love you? Have I told you lately that I care? Have I told you lately that i miss you? Well darlings I'm telling you now!! That goes for your Mums and Dads as well.

More later. We are now 11 hours behind Ontario and tomorrow it will be 12. By the way there is no 3rd February on this ship...it is the day we lose... so I shall take advantage of that and remain the same age through 2010 and George is off the hook for a gift! He is giving me a special dinner which we are to share with Liz and Audrey, Lynn and Marc.

By the way some of you might not know that Andy Murray was beaten in the finals of the Australian Open by Roger Federer. This is possibly the only match I wish Federer had lost! Never mind Andy is only 22 so he's got lots of time....I followed it for a time in 'live text' on the BBC.

More photos...with any luck! (Honolulu & Waikiki)


(4) Flowering plant at museum entrance and Liz & Audrey watching the gangway going home.

(3) Diamond Head from the Outrigger Reef






(2) Bishp Museum and the view of Honolulu skyscrapers from the gardens.


(1) Where the Akaka falls meet the sea and where we saw surfers. Kole Kole Point







Saturday, January 30, 2010

Hopefully photos


(6) Sarong Sale Big Island (7) Typical home on coastal toad, Big Island Hawaii





(4) Audrey, Liz and George
(5) Akaka Falls Big Island, Hawaii







(2) Our "patio" (3) Our ship!




(1)
Our cabin





Friday, January 29, 2010

Aloha and Farewell

Friday 29th January



I was so tired last night I skipped blogging. It had been a wonderful but exhausting day and on top of everything else we had to wave good bye to Hawaii.

It was a beautiful sunny morning so George and I took a cab up to the Bishop Museum of Hawaiian and Polynesian Culture. I'm always a little intimidated by Museums but this one was a gift. It is first of all housed in a lovely old building, built I think in 1889, and stands in about an acre of tropical gardens. The first thing you notice on entering is the quietness and subdued lighting; the walls are mostly a warm, dark wood as are the frames of the display cabinets. We started by reading the history of the place itself. The land belonged to a 19th century Hawaiian Princess(Beatrice) who married an Englishman by the name of Bishop. When she died her husband gave the land back to the people of Hawaii and the museum was built on it so that generations to come would learn from it and honour their heritage and culture.

We spent about two hours there looking at the exhibits of clothes, Gods, rituals, old styles of housing and living, bark fabrics with exquisite designs, pottery, headresses and ceremonial garb. My only problem was that after a little while I began to feel as if the ground was shifting under me ....it has taken much longer than usual to shed that sensation of walking on a moving ship. I had to keep sitting down to regain my balance. There is no one slower than George going round galleries and museums but this time I was at the same pace....partly from fascination and partly because of my frequent sit-ins!

We decided after a couple of hours to get a bus down to Waikiki for last minute shopping and lunch. I realised how much more of the scenery and culture you observe in a bus than a taxi. Because Hawaii is a part of the United States one tends to think it is simply a sort of exotic "American" island but although there is that aspect on the surface there is a vast difference from any mainland State in the appearance of the people (a mixture of Polynesian, Japanese, and Chinese with black hair, dark eyes and deep golden/brown skin) and their language and culture. They are such a friendly, gentle and dignified people that I felt sad to think of all the close-to-the-earth-and-sea spiritualism and culture they are in danger of losing. I feel more cheerful about the survival of their language as you know...I hope I'm right!

After a last drink at our favourite on the beach restaurant we made our way back to the ship by bus at about 4 o'clock....to miss the long queues as the SAS trips return all at the same time.

We sailed out of Honolulu at 8 pm last night and it was a beautiful sight. The whole city was lit up but you could still see the shapes of the high hills beyond and of course the famous land mark, Diamond Head. There was a starry sky and a full moon so perhpas you can imagine the view as we pulled away from Aloha Towers almost in the centre of the city. There was a warm breeze and we know that we are movong now towards the colder climes of Japan and China.

It is 1600 hours on board as I write (tea time Dia!) and after a very wet start to the day with pouring rain during the night we are sailing through calm seas with a light breeze under cloudy skies. We have all been back to classes today and this evening is going to be full: drinks in the loungs at 5 pm, post port reflections in the Union and our Sino/American lecture somewhere...we haven't been given times and locations yet. There is also a meeting of the news committee to which I am supposed to be invited apparently and a film on Mao Tsetung on TV which we are supposed to watch....hmmm?

I'll let you know how it all works out...

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Honolulu

Wednesday 27th January.


6.45 am. We are berthed in Honolulu. I have meditated, George has brought me a cup of lovely strong, hot tea after watching the docking procedure. It has been raining apparently but now there is a clear, starry sky so we hope for a good day. We have visited Oahu twice, once in 1993 for a conference and once of course at the end of our voyage last year.


I shall now veer off at a tangent: 1993 was the year my mother died in Edinburgh ( July), a year remembered with sadness by Sheona, Tessa and Fiona I know. George and I had planned a trip by sea from Newcastle-on-Tyne to Norway, visiting my mum in Edinburgh on our way. We arrived at Argyle Place where she lived in what is called in Scotland "sheltered housing". Mum had a little studio apartment on the ground floor and was voluntarily cared for by the Warden (?!) and her sweet husband Alistair. When we arrived Alistair took us aside immediately and told us that, although she wouldn't admit it to us, my mother was not well. We knew you were coming so we didn't phone he said. To cut a long story short my mother died exactly a week later and I was with her. George did the Norwegian trip alone and we met up later in Munich. My three daughters flew over from Canada for the funeral and helped me clear out mum's little flat with my cousin Marjorie guiding me through all the lawyers meetings and registration of death and the myriad of arrangements that dull the grief in those first few days.

My parents left me some money with which we bought a cottage in Bancroft. So during our stay in Honolulu we 'practically' bought the little cottage of our choice on Jeffrey Lake. Faxes flew back and forth from Waikiki to Bancroft, an unlikely duo, and we gained possession while we were here. So in a strange way as you might now understand, Honolulu always brings back memories of my mother...and Marjorie and our cottage.

The last two paragraphs were written particularly for my daughters to remind them of that fateful year and tie some ends together bringing us (finally) to the island of Oahu and Honolulu.

Back to cheerier thoughts. Clouds are sinking on the horizon and the sky above is clear, a lovely day is promised. We on the port side of the ship are facing a neighbouring wharf with a tall granary like building in the centre and beyond that the sea. The tall skyscrapers of Honolulu are to starboard. They make a dramatic and rather beautiful skyline.

1800 hours in Honolulu, 2300 hours in Ontario:

Hawaii was not a place which, in our early years in BC, I ever wanted to visit. I had been bored through too many Nelson dinner parties with slides of our hosts' recent holidays in Hawaii. I was completely turned off! However that said I wasn't about to be left behind when in 1993 George was invited to speak at a conference in Waikiki. We flew via Vancouver from Toronto and arrived in Honolulu at the dead of night. We could only see lights around us from the balcony of the Outrigger Hotel. When I woke early the next morning and opened the balcony doors I crowed with delight. There were the skyscrapers of Honolulu to our right with the hills behind and to our left was Waikiki beach and the ocean... our hotel stood sideways on so that we enjoyed both views. I miss the sea so much in Ontario I was ecstatic! I spent the next few days exploring the immediate area while George attended his conference in a posh hotel at the far end of the beach. For lunch I had my first mahi mahi burgers and I picnicked under the trees on the grass behind the beach which is where George and I have spent this afternoon, reading our books and George did go swimming.


We left the ship this morning soon after breakfast and shared a taxi into Waikiki with Liz and Audrey who haven't been here before. I think they were a little bothered by the busy-ness of it and all the skyscrapers after the quietness and smallness of Hilo. We coffeed first at Starbucks while George searched for the restaurant we wanted to meet at for lunch. It is downstairs at the Outrigger Reef Hotel, right on the beach (for those of you who might visit Waikiki). George wrote out instructions and we parted to do our separate things. I finally found a photography shop and bought a card reader which I hope to work out eventually to put photos on this blog. I also bought a pair of light swimming shoes in preparation for Mauritius and anywhere else with coral and rocks underwater.


Do you want to know what we all had for lunch? Fish! I reverted back to a Mahi Mahi burger and the others had various forms of fish and chips. It was delightful sitting under beautiful overhead fans pulled by trolleys and cables, 3 at a time, each blade shaped like a fat green leaf, and watching the sailing boats, swimmers and sun worshippers from our lovely cool window table. After the others had downed My Tais with goodly portions of rum (I sensibly stuck to iced tea just so that I could be disapproving when the time came) the conversation became quite hilarious as Liz, George and I shared some "historic" memories....poor Audrey! (Nora and Jo you would have been howling with us). We didn't stand out because there was a party of 100 sitting in the back part of the restaurant and they almost drowned us out. These people were having a free lunch and were given $100.00 to listen to a promotion of some hotels. We were offered the same deal and George refused it. He couldn't believe I would have said yes! Well I mean to say
$100.00 and free lunch...what would you do? When we told Liz and Audrey I could tell that Liz would have probably gone along with me!

22.00 hours Honolulu time:

We are back in our cabin having walked to Chinatown not too far from Aloha Towers where the Explorer is berthed. I asked two Chinese girls we passed if they would recommend a good place to eat and they said immediately the Little Village restaurant on Smith Street. So that's where Liz, Audrey, George and I went and enjoyed a pretty good Chinese meal. However, there were two disappointments we agreed on; tasteless Chinese tea and uninteresting Taro duck with very little duck in it. Taro is the root vegetable with which Hawaiians make Poi, a sort of gluey paste which Hawaiians (and I) enjoy but the majority of others dislike. I think it is my love of porridge that allows me to enjoy these strange dishes....like Pablum. When I fed it to my baby daughters I always happily demonstrated how tasty it was! Another piece of information you didn't really need........

Perhaps I should follow George and go to bed!

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

A day on Hilo

Tuesday 26th January

I realise how very fortunate we are to be telling you it has been hot today on this date. A remark of Jo S's triggered that thought "if you are snowed in" she said trying to persuade her friends to fill in something (haven't done it yet Jo, it's been too hot....just kidding).

George had an early start as he had to move our rental car from just outside the wharf before 6 am. However the harbour security were helpful and he was able to park near our new pier...number 3. (Into pier 1 slid a huge cruise ship which dwarfs the Explorer). He returned after a very short time and we had breakfast (I'll spare you the details!) and then met Liz and Audrey at the foot of the gangway (to begin our coastal drive in the opposite direction from last night) at 9am.

Our first stop was Walmart actually but no luck in finding my photo cable connection for the computer, I hope for better luck in Honolulu. The pressure of George sitting waiting with L & A in the car was great (L & A having Walmarted yeasterday), also it was certainly no fun wandering around the store away from the sun and sea.

The scenic route round the North East of the island was spectacular: sheer drops down tree studded cliffs to rocky inlets and crashing waves. The road itself was in superb condition just recently tarmacked and smooth as can be.

We visited Akaka Falls in the middle of dense forest ((with an enormous variety of trees): there is a paved path and steps to the falls which is about half a mile, up and down, from the car park. I set off on my own because Audrey and George were discussing the drinking of beer surreptitiously (not of course permitted in public) and I didn't imagine that Liz would want to do the walk. It was all in the shade and there was a cool, damp feeling in the air. I had glimpses of the white froth through the trees but when I reached the end there was this marvellous waterfall, narrow and steep dropping hundreds of feet into a dark, rocky pool and continuing its way tumbling towards the sea. I hope that when I eventually put some photos on to the blog they will do it justice.

I started my route back up to the car and who should I meet walking slowly down but George...obviously the secret beerfest hadn't taken place. He went merrily on his way and a few minutes later there were Liz and Audrey gamely descending the steps. Remember you have to go back again I said severely to Liz. "We shall only turn back" she replied "when we meet George on his return" . So we went our separate ways and I soon reached the parking lot and sat myself down on a cool stone wall under a tree. After about half an hour George appeared...alone. Where are Liz and Audrey? "Oh I did the whole circular route and saw some other waterfalls" said George "Let's go and drink a beer." Jo and Nora will understand: I started worrying about Liz. Is this pushing things too far? Will it prove to be too much for her? Should I go and search in case she and Audrey need help? Will they keep waiting for George?

How do men manage to compartmentalise so well? George sits in a shady corner drinking his beer like a naughty schoolboy in 7th heaven while I am tearing myself apart wondering what to do. Suddenly I see them...walking firmly and steadily, almost at the top of the last climb, barely out of breath. 'We decided he had done the whole circuit so we turned back at the falls' says Liz. George shakes his head at me and whispers "When will you ever learn?" To do what? To mind my own business? Probably never.

We decide against the Botanical Gardens because we are so much enjoying the coastal road. We stop at the sea end of the Akaka Falls at a spot known as Kole Kole Point. We walk across an open grassy field towards the sea and watch the dark waters flowing into the surf where three young men are body surfing and swimming under the waves to wait for the big ones. I remember the joys of body surfing as a teen ager in South Africa but that was off open beaches and here there are rocks jutting up and only a narrow bay to avoid them....looks dangerous. but it's a great spectator sport.

We are all hungry so we drive on until we find a small Hawaiian grocery store, with one plastic table and four chairs, outside and which offers smoothies, Hawaaiian 'plates' and sandwiches. The three women opt for sandwiches, which are obscenely fat, and George waits interminably for "Pig, I ordered Pig". ..one of the 'plates'. Eventually I say this is ridiculous George go and ask them where it is, and he does his coy "Go on you do it...you do it so much better than I"... I don't argue, it's been nearly 40 minutes, "My husband ordered a Hawaiian plate of pork" I say tentatively to a woman making peanut butter sandwiches inside....OH MY GOD! she screams I FORGOT! I'M SOOO Sorry! and within five minutes George is eating his lunch.

We drive back into Hilo and pay a last visit to a little beach just up the road from the port. We look at the ships and realise that we shall be sailing again tonight, this time to Honolulu. George drops us off at the entrance to the port and returns the car to Enterprise. The whole deal costs us US$ 34.00. Because we didn't as promised get picked up by a shuttle and had to take a cab he lopped $10.00 off yesterday. Today he said 'Forget the gas, we kept you waiting' so, the final total including taxes was as above. Not a bad deal considering we had driven over a great part of the island. The car was a larger one than I had ordered too, a Dodge: very spacious and comfortable. Quite a change from our Yaris for the two passengers! Then I wonder....perhaps there was a deal on for only $ 20.00 anyway? Aren't I horribly suspicious? Perhaps he was just a nice man.

The ship which is berthed in our previous pier 1 is the Holland America's Zaandam. She looks good for a large ship, not like a concrete block, she looks like a proper ship and the Explorer looks tiny beside her.

George is sitting on a chaise longue on the deck drinking a Campari...makes a change from my usual parting sentence doesn't it? It's 5 pm here and10 pm in Ontario Jo (or 2200 hours in nautical language and what our administrative assistant kept announcing in the thousands over the intercom not having had this job before!). Liz and Audrey are coming up for drinks.

22.00 hours here:

We sat happily on the deck until about 6.30 and had the excitement of watching the gangway being drawn up and parked in it's slot over our heads: it lies almost directlyabove our deck/balcony whilst we are at sea.

After supper we watched as the main tug, of three, guided, prodded and pulled us out of the harbour entrance and saw the pilot leap off the Explorer onto it....quite a feat I always think, especially in heavy seas, but tonight it's beautifully calm. There is an almost full moon shining on the churning water and far in the distance we saw the receding glow of the Zaandam which sailed just before we did. Ships that pass in the night....

Now George is watching the moonlit sea and drinking a brandy as we speed along at 23 knots....what's the hurry I wonder? George thinks our Captain is showing off and wants to reach Honolulu before the Zaandam! We shall reach the very central docks in Honolulu at 6 am but there is no pressure to get up early, no more immigration formalities to go through, just two glorious days on Oahu (we shall be relaxing at Waikiki) before we sail out into the great Pacific for nine sea days before reaching Yokohama and Japan. Keep fingers crossed for good weather and calm seas.

Nearly time for bed and a good book.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Hilo and the hawaiian Language

Monday January 25th



The day began with frustration. We were told to be up and ready to go through immigration at 6 am. My brain of course wakes me at 2 hourly intervals all through night and each time I peer at my illuminated watch: 2 am, 3.30 am, 4.15 am, ah 5am! I spring out of bed, see that we are in port by the wharf lights (not very inviting I think) and proceed to shower and dress. George growls at me and says he isn't going to shower until after we've been through immigration. What about breakfast I whine, (insomnia makes me hungry) We've plenty of time for Heavens sake! he snaps. OK I think, I'll show you, I shall just stride down on my own and be ahead of the game....hah!


Well amazingly he gets up and is rushing into the lounge getting coffee as though he senses my thoughts. Eventually uniformed immigration officials and staff turn up, I am lingering out on the deck, George goes through the process and I rush in to the lounge to be greeted with "Only American citizens please"....OK I'll be sweet tempered, step out of line and, feeling foreign and illegal, wait my turn. At last Faculty and Staff are done, I step forward..."Sorry Ma'am you'll have to wait till all the students go through"... you're kidding right? There are over 600 of them! "So sorry, not our fault, it's the officials" I'm told. I remember, (how could I not?) the University of Virginia's Honour code, "Assume positive intent"....in fact I quote it back through gritted teeth to the poor LLC who has had to pass all these messages on to me..I''m glad to say he looks impressed, "I think you should just go and relax in your cabin" he says, so I go, tail between my legs.

Poor Jonathan who is disembarking says "No one told me it was so difficult to leave the ship!" and the two of us mutter rebellion. Finally I am allowed in (a full hour later) and march up to the immigration official expecting and ready to give, trouble.

Good morning how are you? he says with a huge smile,
Um... I start
Wow you're from Canada! he says happily...
Um... I say,
Hey I had someone else from Hamilton, are there a whole group of you? asks this ridiculously cheerful guy, doesn't he know I'm seething?
The others are behind me, (Liz and Audrey) that was my husband you met.

He snaps my passport shut with a flourish... Have a great day he says you're one of us!!

That is the final blow....I want to shout I WAS ONE OF YOU AT 6 am!!!!!!

As I leave the lounge Jonathan murmurs something like It must be nice, he's still waiting....I don't say a word!

What took you so long? asks George...
I leave for breakfast.

By the way the next time I stand on our blacony I realise the view is lovely: palm trees, casuarinas and rocks edging down to a lagoon. the Explorer has turned around....obviously SAS trying to butter me up.

G's FDP (Faculty directed practica) leaves by bus at 9.30 so we and 15 students are taken to a Hawaiian Immersion primary school. George is lecturing about three things on the Explorer. (1) English as a global language and (2)Languages of the World and (3) Language death. The last fits into the theme of the semester, sustainability. Hawaiian is a threatened language so at the Ka-Umeke Ka'eo school the pupils (grades 1 to 5) are taught in Hawaiian and are not supposed to speak any English. We are represented on entering the gates by two small boys who chant our request to enter the school and we are welcomed by a choir of about 20 to 30 children singing a welcome to us. It is quite beautiful and they accompany their song with graceful arm movements which resemble the Hula movements we have learned. George then thanks them very formally for their welcome and explains that we have come to Hilo on a 'big ship' across stormy seas and are very excited to be there.

We were split into two groups and visited them in their classrooms. I love the musical sound of the language, expecially as spoken by these children and the female students simply want to take them all home! They concentrate hard on their work as their teachers explain to us how far they come (some 60 miles) and how passionate their parents and grandparents are that they should speak Hawaiian. English is their first language and yet their Hawaiian sounds easy and fluent. I compliment the teacher on their wonderful behaviour...hmm, she says, they're not usually like this...

The school is built round a garden of flowers, fruits, vegetables and three piles neatly stacked of compost. The children keep these beds under the supervision of a delightful young man who takes us round and explains the projects. and how they grow and thrive in experiments using verying planting methods and types of compost. Like the Aboriginals in Canada they live close to the earth and the elements. He tells us that Hilo has been deluged many times by Tsunamis coming of course from the sea and eruptions and lava flows from two volcanoes. Our bus driver, Mr Frank, says you run from the sea for one and towards it for the other and just pray that they never happen at the same time!

We sadly say goodbye for we must go next to the University of Hawaii. We stop on the way for all you can eat Pizza and salad for $ 10.00! Delicious. We arrive at the Hawaiian Language Centre of the University at 1.30 and are again represented and welcomed, this time by a group of university students. As the welcome is being sung two students, male and female, stand behind the men and women of our group and in soft voices translate the words. Each one of them then welcomes each one of us with an Aloha, a hug and a kiss on the cheek.

With great energy and dedication these young men and women are fighting to preserve the Hawaiian language, they are impressive. They look American or Japanese or Hawaiian but they act like young Americans and speak English to us....usually, like the children, they only permit themselves at work to speak in Hawaiian. They have published the first coloured illustrated books for the pupils of Immersion schools in Hawaiian and boxes, each containig 31 such books are given to each child's family. They write the stories, use childrens' or fine artists' paintings and the tales are about the Hawaiian way of life and beliefs.

I cannot believe that this language will die with such hard work and dedication. We mention the advantage of having a president who grew up in Hawaii and they are hopeful they say for 'help from above'!

George and I picked up our rented car after returning briefly to the ship and drive to the lava fields about 22 miles from Hilo along the coast road. I have never before seen and touched hardened lava. It stretches like crusted black fields right down to the sea. It has formed a changed coast line, already altered many times over by the 55 foot waves of tsunamis caused by earthquakes (8-9 on the Richter scale) which happened as far away as the Aleutian islands, Chile and Alaska! Last one in 1961. Now of course the Pacific tsunami warning system is in place and they will have about 4 hours to get to higher ground.

Did I mention that it has been a hot day here? The heavy black clouds gathered above us and a few drops of rain fell (teasing us said Mr Frank) but the grass in brown and dry and they haven't had rain since November... this is the tail end of the rainy season.

We had dinner tonight in a lovely large glassed in restaurant with potted plants and French cafe style tables and chairs. I had a marvellous chicken gumbo soup followed by a warm goat cheese (crusted with seeds) salad and a vinaigrette dressing. George had a mixed sea food platter. It was a relief to drive along in our bubble of isolation after being in a community for 8 days and a treat to eat off the ship. I have just remembered being reprimanded at school because my essays always included detailed descriptions of each meal I had eaten on any given occasion,,,I'm still doing it! How will I ever become sylph like with these priorities?

We still have the car until 4 pm tomorrow so are taking Liz and Audrey and exploring this lovely, friendly island some more.

I'm off to bed and guess what, surprise, surprise, George has beaten me to it!

By the way, I have to get a connecting cable for my camera to put photos finally into the blog...perhaps tomorrow. ...not of me doing the Hula Jo and Theresa!

Sunday, January 24, 2010

The Big Island and Hilo Tomorrow

Sunday 25th January

You have permission to envy us now. All day the seas have been a calm deep blue, the sun has been shining in a clear sky and the temperature was about 72 Fahrenheit. (Sorry I always revert if left to my own devices). We have seen birds galore signalling the closeness of land and we spied a tiny island, probably a volcano someone said, on the horizon this evening almost simultaneously with a stunning sunset.....a deep orange sphere which seemed to plonk into the ocean but no splash...some said they saw green (I never do, stare as I might) at that final moment but that it didn't 'flash'...ah well that doesn't count. It's gotta be a green flash!

I'm really enjoying Erika Paterson's theatre class: lots of creative ideas floating around and fun in store for us BUT the exciting information that came out of it was the discovery, through Erika. that she and and a few others want a news bulletin given daily. I have felt that huge lack, being a news junky myself, and offered my sevices instantly. So.... I am to collect news because I have access to the Internet through George, which most don't have. I immediately sent off Top Stories in the New York Times, The UK Independent and the South African AOL news to Midhun, (from Kerala) who I shall be working with. We'll get organised after Hawaii. Midhun is an LLC. (Living Learning Counsellor for the students). I am very excited about this, it gives me an oppertunity to explore the news daily and pass it on which I feel should have been done. Here we are after all sailing around the world to educate these young people and they have no idea what's going on anywhere! We might land in the middle of a revolution!

Sadly Jonathon Spence leaves us in Hilo and returns to Yale. He will be sorely missed, he has been such an inspiring teacher. Our Sino/American Relations lectures will lose quite a spark I fear. I realise that since the age of about 13 when my Girls Own Paper had an essay on Mme Chiang Kaishek, extolling her virtues as a Chinese heroine I have been fascinated with China. Of course it was later discovered that she and her husband the General were personally salting away millions of American Aid dollars! Ah well, she sparked my interest and I then read Han Su Yin's biographical novels and was hooked. China will be so much more interesting this time around. because of Jonathon.....give him a standing ovation.

We had a madly off key sing-song in the faculty lounge this evening led by our other China expert John Israel from the University of Virginia with the guitar being played by our Academic Dean Mark White. (Note bene John and Theresa!) We sang choruses from almost everything, going back to the early part of the last century I think, to the dismay of the Life Long Learners who were trying to be earnest on the other side of the room!

Had a fascinating conversation at lunch with Lynn and Marc whom I have mentioned before, (English and Morrocan but live in the States with a home in NICE!!), about what it was like to live and teach in the States under the Presidency of George W. Bush. I realised what luxury we enjoyed living in Canada where we could laugh at and criticise him without constraint (as long as we weren't politicians!) because in the US they dared not. Lynn ,who teaches International marketing says she had to steer clear of all political discussion because if a whiff of criticism was suspected she could have lost her job and apparently many did. She said she couldn't even risk discussing opinions with the other members of Faculty because there was such an atmosphere of fear. "If you're not with us you're against us' as Bush said. I had not realised the tension that existed and the restrictions on freedom of speech which we take so fore granted.

We have just had our Logistical pre-port and you would honestly think we were landing in Mongolia, not another part of the United States. I suppose they are trying to terrify the students into good behaviour but I thought they went a little over the top. Only go around in groups of three or four with at least one male in the group?! Please. Amazing to think that Americans actually reside on these islands....and survive!

Guess where George is.....you got it in one, go to the top of the class!

More tomorrow maybe or the day after...

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Hawaii day after tomorrow

Saturday January 23rd

Sing with me to the tune of I've got my love to keep me warm...

The seas are calmer, the sky is bluer
And I am feeling the buzz!
Oh yes the buzz of Hawaii is here
And I've got the sun to keep me warm!

I know, I know ...pathetic, but it's just a symbol of the relief and excitement we're all feeling after the apprehension of the last few days. To feel the normal hum of the engines and feel just the slight movement of the sea beneath us and to be able to walk upright and balanced again seems a precious gift. Add to that the thought of the beautiful Hawaiian islands in the very near future and the world seems to have reverted to sanity and promise.

I had one class today full of historic interest: the period just before world war 2 in china: the combined forces of Chiang Kaishek and Mao Sedung fighting the Japanese, Roosevelt's troubled decision of whether to use air or infantry against them or pour his forces into the European battle against Hitler....and Winston Churchill's pouting preference! That is somewhat of a nutshell of Jonathon Spence's account He is a born raconteur and i could have happily listened to him all afternoon. However liz. Audrey George and I and another couple had supper with him and he told us the tales of two Chinese books he had reviewed which had us in stitches.

I joined the Life Long Learners in the lounge at five to watch a demonstration and explanation of Hula dancing. Our teacher is the wife of the Hawaiian land manager from Maui, she is also a student in my theatre class, Sherry. She is a beautiful dancer and made one want to jump up and join her but I seemed stuck stubbornly to my seat! Others were braver and had a whale of a time. We learned the arm, hand and finger movements representing the stars, sun, moon, wind and rain, boats, flowers, mountains, women and houses. We then translated her story as she danced with our new found knowledge. We also watched the hip movements of the dancer with envy. Each family lineage dances slightly differently and although Sherry herself is American, Scott her husband is almost pure Hawaiian with American missionary ancestors way back. Interstingly only about 20% of the whole population of Hawaii is pure Hawaiian.

Our Global Study class today discussed the moral position of the United States and the way they took over the islands. Verry interrestink! I wanted to say "You know we Brits eventually gave the Empire independence....shouldn't you do the same?" (uproar!) But I know that, apart from the fact that they are not about to do that, it's by no means the majority of the Hawaiian population who really want Sovereignty and Independence. I shall pose the question privately and let you know the answer.

Have finally booked our flights from Chennai to Cochin on 11th March. Liz and Audrey are joining us for our trip in Kerala to a bird sanctuary, a plantation bungalow in Munnar and finally a night on a house boat in Allopey....is that how it's spelled? Not certain: will look it up tomorrow and edit accordingly.. The ship is only spending one night in Chennai and then sailing to Cochin so we shall board again on the 16th March in the latter port.

The booking form was very thorough and gave us a choice of meat or vegetarian dishes for a one and a half hour flight so I decided to avoid any mishaps to order vegetarian for all four of us. We received our confirmation of booking tonight and each one of us is down to eat meat! Ah well it was a good idea while it lasted.

George is sound asleep. Anyone who is surprised put up your hand....right go to the back of the class and put that cone shaped hat on.

More tomorrow.

Friday, January 22, 2010

Calma!

friday 22nd january continued.

At last two things happened:-

(1) We received a dean's memo explaining the rough seas. Lowest air pressure ever recorded and huuricane force gales beating the Californian coast. It also stated that this evening the swells and waves would decrease.

(2) I'm glad to say they have, although glasses on tables are still taking off on their own volition and we are still rolling ...but perhaps a good night's sleep awaits us.

George and I decided to forgo supper as we had a reception for the Life Long Learners, faculty and Staff so had snacks and drinks in the lounge at five. George of course is already in bed! The time 9,20 pm.

So more tomorrow from, hopefully, a refreshed brain.

and rolling!

Friday January 22nd

No-one should be envying us right now! We have had one of the worst nights I have ever experienced at sea. In fact before going to bed I laid out a warm sweatshirt, my runners and socks, clean underwear....and a hat! Why? Former SAS-ers will know why. Yes, I thought it entirely possible that we might hear the seven emergency blasts during the night.

The Captain would no doubt pronounce that a terrible over-reaction on my part but I was a girl guide once and it can't hurt to be prepared. The weather was dreadful...HUGE swells and waves The ship rocked badly all night. I have discovered that even Ronnie the head waiter did not sleep and you know if the waiters don't get any shut-eye things are unusually disturbing. I imagine if you were on board one of those incredibly gigantic liners which are cruise ships these days you might not feel the motion as much but this is a light ship built for speed.

Everything in our cabin moved including the bed: George has stated "Beds should not move on ocean going vessels!" and he's right because it leaves nowhere to feel secure. There is six inches between the bed and bed-side table on each side so we glided that 12 inches back and forth all night. Everything else apart from this lap-top moved the whole length of the cabin and from the bathroom came a series of thumps as secured plastic blottles of shampoo fell into the bath and everything remaining on the tiny shelves ended up on the floor or in the hand basin.

It is very little better this morning so we have now been rolling badly for over 72 hours. I rushed (like climbing Everest) to the dining room at 7.30 for an 8 am class and there were students with pale faces, obviously exhausted and there were a few faculty secretly hoping that no one would show up for lectures....but we all did! I think carrying on life as normal minimises the fear and discomfort.

Our theatre class uses the Union so we sat on risers and the floor not daring to sit on the all too moveable chairs. (In a talk in one of the classrooms last night someone fell heavily off one of the typical classroom chairs (with annoying trays that mean you have to be pencil thin to sit down) and broke some fingers.) George said all his class turned up but were so sleepy he had to do all the talking.

As I write the mouse keeps sliding off the desk and I have had to put my mug of tea in the hand basin to save spills. I keep thinking as I did during the night 'It's getting better' but we have all discovered that a short period of wonderful calm precedes a crashing roll!

According to our theatre prof. we are to do street drama in Cape Town....I'm so glad I'm going to be in Franschhoek! I would hate to compete with the street drama that already happens there. We are also to be making masks again....help!

I haven't seen Liz and Audrey yet today I imagine they got up at a reasonable hour. Their cabin is more amidships on the 5th deck and I find that one feels more 'contained' there with less movement but Audrey said it had been pretty bad yesterday.

I'll write more later..........

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Still rolling...

January 21st
I am beginning to think that the Pacific should be renamed. Peaceful it is not. We have been rolling and rocking from side to side, the horizon rising to block the sky and then dipping so that all we see is sky… for three days now. Apparently this is not normal but is the result of a gigantic Pacific storm ….these huge swells are the remnants of that storm.



I have sailed on large ships since I was two years old …and that’s a very long time. I have no recollection of swollen seas like this lasting for more than 48 hours, if that. Also I have never ‘felt’ the motion as much even on the “banana boats” of the Elder Dempster line which ploughed the seas between West African ports (in our case Lagos, Tema, Accra and Takoradi) and Liverpool. Those were much smaller ships and we sailed through some fearsome storms in the Western Approaches with almost hurricane force gales…I don’t remember the movement being as great as this. However it's possible that time has diminished the memory!


All that said life goes on. We continued classes yesterday and today; I am doing Sino/American relations and Performance in Grass roots and Community theatre. It was our first theatre class yesterday and promises to be great fun with improvisation (street theatre on the ship!) and cooperatively produced performances. There is a huge amount of reading to do and I am loath to spend the money on books in either course so hope to be able to share or get a loan of the texts. There are only eight of us in the theatre class: the intimacy and therefore individual demands are somewhat intimidating!


I am very much enjoying the Sino/American relations class. Yesterday we listened to Jonathan Spence talking about China from 1700 – 1911. Google him for your interest, honours have been heaped upon him, even by the Queen. He is though a most delightful, humorous and un-assuming man. Ask him a simple question and his vast knowledge of China means you will receive an in depth and fascinating answer with lots of unexpected highlights. I noticed that no mention has yet been made of women’s role during this period in China and I know they held some power if only in the background as concubines and Empresses or consorts. I wonder how long it would take Jonathan to answer that one?! I look forward to it, perhaps this afternoon. We have that class every day and it’s every other day for theatre. I think that’s enough…I’m remembering Theresa….no commitments!!. This is supposed to be my theme for the voyage…right?
One of the remarkable differences between the academic side of this voyage and our last in the spring of 2009 is the interaction and participation of everyone in every public discussion. Global studies is alive with comments, questions and challenges, mostly from the students but from the rest of us too. It is expected, in fact demanded, and makes for a much more interesting and lively session. I would guess that one of the aims of these Global Study sessions is to make American students very aware of their good luck in being born American., which is the way it was suggested to them today so that it is in fact a “there but for the grace of God go you” situation. They have been given huge charts with statistics of every kind in almost every country in the world so comparisons are made easy. Today they were asked to find any one jaw dropping statistic. For instance the percentage of population in Swaziland infected with HIV/AIDS…largest percentage in the world. The lowest per capita income in the world Under $2.00 a day in Tanzania and Bangladesh.


This was followed by an talk on Hawaii given by a Hawaiian. A young man who has been a US marine and served in Iraq and Guantanamo Bay, went to the University of Hawaii and I think graduated as a marine biologist. He spoke of the low approval rate from native Hawaiians when the population was asked to vote on Hawaii becoming an American state. There is still resentment in some pockets of the population today.


I am writing this blog in Word because today we seem to have no access to the Internet. I had forgotten that this tends to happen in certain areas where there is no satellite contact.
We are becoming much more conscious of which chairs are safe to sit in, in both the Union and lounge. Only the really heavy ones which are extremely hard to move. There have been quite a few falls out of chairs as they slide across the room….professors sprawling in all directions, George one of them. So undignified!! It happened to me as you know on our last voyage so I should be the last to comment!


As I write we are rolling badly however today the sea does look rough. The last few days it has looked deceptively calm, almost like glass, but hidden are the nasty swells waiting to rock the ship every few minutes, some between 15 and 20 feet high! Poor Mandy our barman lost a tray loaded with glasses last night: it simply slid across the counter and smashed to smithereens all over the floor. He was not a happy camper! It seems strange to say but I prefer the more obvious seas to those which are so very deceptive. At least today we can see ‘em coming! Lots of white caps in the big waves.


Here for Liam and Katie are our stats:
Latitude: 19 degrees 12.5 N
Longitude: 136 “ “ 36.1 W
Speed: 11.7 knots
Course: 270 degrees
Time: 11.24 am

_______________________



It is now 4.30 pm and the rolling of the Explorer is worse than ever! (Aren't you glad to be all warm, cozy and safe at home on terra firma?) It was comforting to see a couple of birds (we're not sure what they are, not albatrosses we don't think...boobies?) and know that there is land approaching even if it is still 3 days away. There is now a wind and the seas and sky are grey.



The Sino/American relations lecture was fun today. We watched a film shown just before Nixon stepped off his plane on that historic visit to China in the 60's. It showed what Americans knew or thought they knew about China. Alot of old movie clips were shown where the menacing pencil-moustached Chinese were always the villains but never played by Chinese actors, nearly always British but sometimes American! Realising that I had watched and probably enjoyed some of those early films was positively embarassing!

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

The rolling Pacific!

Tuesday January 19th

Today has been the first day of classes and so there has been an air of efficiency and business around the ship; students and those of us who are not teaching clutching pens and exercise books and searching for classrooms. First sessions are a little boring for those of us auditing classes because they are all about expectations and grades, tests and final exams.

The day was going quite swimmingly (pardon the pun) when the old Pacific started to show us what it could do. Well it can roll with the best of them....way over to port and then let's do even better over to starboard.....woops, watch it, oh there go the glasses, the cups , the plates....hang on....there goes George in his chair in the faculty lounge, slowly, gently, tumbling on to the floor! There goes Liz to the loo hanging on to chair backs, there goes the bar steward balancing expertly a tray full of glasses over his head...he's done this before. The sun is shining brightly, the sea is blue and a litte ruffled but the swells are HUGE!

Liz and Audrey have two wonderful stewards who accompany then in the line ups for food, holding their arms all the way to their chairs; Allan and Ishmael. Tonight they excelled themselves and guided them both in and out of the dining room. The rest of us stagger around the best we can like drunkards making our way home.

We have a world expert in China on board, a charming Englishman, Jonathan Spence, I think I mentioned him before. I managed to introduce him to Liz this evening in the lounge and he spoke to her for nearly 45 minutes on Shanghai and the French Concession where she lived as a child. He then introduced her to a Chinese prof we have on board who actually lives in Shanghai so hopefully between them they will get Liz organised to get to the area she knew best when we're there.

George and I attended a lecture on Sino/Amerian relations. It was fascinating. it was given jointly by the Chinese professor and by John Israel an American historian specialising in China. They each separately spoke about how their countrymen view the other's country...negatively! They didn't warn us beforehand and as I sat there listening to John being utterly scathing about China I felt acutely embarrassed as I knew there were also about 5 or 6 students from university in Beijing sitting in the Union listening. However when he had finished this diatribe he explained what they were doing and I heaved a sigh of relief. The Chinese prof then stood up and started off... "America, a democracy? We don't think so!' and went from there. It was really interesting to watch the faces of the American students. It's not often that any of us are exposed to such criticism of the States face to face by China! He talked about the homeless on the American streets, the wars in Korea, Vietnam and Iraq, the violence, lack of adequte medical care, disastrous and questionable voting system....oh it was quite a lambasting! At the next session Jonathon Spence is to be the moderator between the two opposing views. That's tomorrow..

George and I watched the BBC version of Noel Coward's Vortex tonight with a magnificent performance of Florence by Margaret Leighton, so it must have been made in the 70's I think. I saw her on the stage in TS Elliot's Cocktail Party at the Edinburgh festival years ago, she was brilliant.

Well we are rocking again ridiculously so I think I shall weave my way to bed where I feel a bit more secure. Oh by the way for the 4th night in a row...George is sound asleep. The time? 9.55 pm! Isn't it fortunate he never reads my blog!!

Monday, January 18, 2010

All at sea....

Monday 18th January

You know how it is when you're in the middle of rehearsing a play and you think four weeks from now it'll all be over and I can relax, I can hardly wait! And then the four weeks pass and it's all over and you think... phew! that's nice, that's over......um...um... what shall I do now? Hey who's auditioning?!

Well for weeks I've been thinking just get me to the ship and let me settle into the cabin and all will be well. Right. We're here, we're unpacked, all is well BUT today as I sat reading and relaxing this afternoon I thought...hmm, what can I get involved in? I wonder what's going on in the Union? I'll just go and have a look...perhaps I'll go up to the pool deck...shall I have cup of coffee? I wonder who is in the faculty lounge? I had to have a strict chat with myself; settle down, I said, enjoy the peace, don't go looking for commitment and trouble, stay where you are!

At 5 o'clock off I went to the Faculty lounge to help Cathy if she needed it in the Life Long Learner's first meeting and to have a glass of wine. I stayed for a short time and thought I know all this stuff. she doesn't need me so went and joined George at a table with another couple Lynn and Marc (she's English nd he French Moroccan), fun conversation, feeling better and get settled. over comes Cathy "Will you help me register students for the extended family programme after supper?" ....of course, great. get involved.

So after supper off I go. Students ALL, it seems, want to be part of a ship board family (over 300 of them anyway) which is really being talked up by Life long Learners who are assisting. Casually I ask Cathy 'How many staff and faculty have agreed to have families?' I ask....she looks at me for a long moment......"Not enough" she says. Oops! Students are saying "I'm really excited about this idea of being part of a family on the ship!' I smile and say "I'm Maggie...what's your name?" and they reply 'Oh where do you come from?' (like I'm from another planet) and we change the subject. These are great students; fresh faced and so enthusiastic. One says "I want a really good family' so I replied 'You know the one you have back home?' 'uh huh' 'Did you get to choose them? 'No' "It's the same here" I say. He looks perplexed for a minute and then...thankfully...laughs. "You might even get me" I say as a parting shot and don't watch his face.

We have had lunch and dinner with Liz and Audrey. The waiters look after them as though they are made of fragile crystal, snatching their full plates away and guiding them to their seats. All done with such sweetness and grace. Audrey is totally unpacked, Liz still has a suitcase "In the middle of the cabin floor" says Audrey "Specially to trip me up in the night!"

Dee I have met and just had a long conversation with Kathryn and Patrick. Patrick is doing George's linguistics course and Kathryn is looking for yoga. Did you know she has just finished a book on pro-active aging? What a nice couple....we talked about becoming invisible as we age. I can't imagine either of them ever becoming invisible! You may know that Kathryn is going on safari in South Africa and Patrick is staying in Cape Town.

George is sound asleep as I write for the third night in a row! Off to bed now with my book so shall be into the exciting world of espionage in my dreams! More tomorrow when hopefully I shall have attended lectures on Sino/Americam Relations and Africa and its Peoples Global and local. Next day for theatre.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

ahoy there...students aboard!

Sunday 17th January.

I was up at the crack of dawn this morning and did a few lengths of the 7th deck....don't be impressed it was probably only a few hundred yards. I am determined this trip to excercise and to find myself a route. I am not using the elevator at all and am already getting used to climbing the two flights from Timmits Square to the 7th deck. It was dark as I walked along but Ensenada was lit up and the seals at the end of the dock were barking their croupy barks.

I went to the library and perused the books again and, for the very last time I imagine, I had it all to myself. At 7 am I went off to breakfast on my own with my book. I thought that gave a pretty clear message but George's parting shot was 'You won't stay alone.' He was right: I was all settled with my back to the dining room, at a window, enjoying my solitude when a voice said May we join you? and that was that. Two more joined us at a table for four we were five. Two were the Executive dean and his wife....can you imagine that happening on the 2009 voyage?!

Cathy, the Life Long Learner co-ordinator asked me to help her greet the LLL's which meant I could discover Liz and Audrey which was great. We welcomed students on the dock until they came through and I greeted them (L& A) with huge hugs... it was strange to see such familiar faces down here! We accompanied them through all the various tables of forms and tags and ID's and finally took them to their cabin which is on the 5th deck. They were both pretty exhausted and glad to collapse into the cabin I think. We left them there to have a little peace.

We are going to take them to lunch when they appear and in the meantime are relaxing ourselves and drinking gallons of water bought at the little snack bar forward on the 7th deck. It was such thirsty work standing waiting on the wharf after all!

Later: Liz & Audrey found our cabin and we had a celebratory glass of wine on our balcony before going down to lunch. At 2.30 pm there was a Life long Learners' orientation which I was invited to only to be called out over the loudspeakers to go to the gangway with Cathy the co-ordinator...how embarrassing, we had forgotten to swipe ourseves back on to the ship with our ID cards! Anyway we both returned shame-facedly to the meeting (a good lesson for the new passengers on what NOT to do!) but I slunk out before the end to have a break. We met L & A in the faculty bar for 5 o'clock drinks....a very civilised custom on the ship, and then went down to supper.

I returned to the Spa at 7 pm had my toes painted a gorgeous glossy red and was finished just in time to join everyone in the Union at 8 pm for the big orientation meeting for the students. Thank goodness tomorrow we return to normal: fewer meetings and more time to think what lectures to take. Voice? Theatre? Sino/American relations (we have one of the worlds foremost experts (Jonathon Spense) on board until Hawaii: he's English from Yale? Actually I have to say I am tempted by the latter classes, I would like to learn more of China before our second visit there. But then there's Art and Watercolours, International Business and Marketing, (No!), Linguistics (better not!), Public Health and Water in the World, Marine Biology and Sharks (Hmmm?) and on and on......

Audrey and Liz came to the orientation and Liz slept through part of it: I'm not surprised, they've been up since 4 am and we know what that's like. Come to think of it I did my morning meditation at 5!

Oh I'm tired....off to bed with the promise from the Captain of a rough night. All our booze is secured so we should be able to sleep through....hopefully!

Saturday, January 16, 2010

The day before we lose the ship....

Saturday 16th January.



That title sounds a little dire but what I mean is this: today and for the last few days since we embarked, Faculty, family members, Staff and all the cabin and dining room stewards have 'owned' this ship...under the Captain and crew of course. We have had space and relative quiet: the corridors and outside decks are virtually empty as we stroll and we can actually hear ourselves think in the library, round the swimming pool (no not filled yet but the surrounding deck is empty) and in the Spa.



As soon as the temperatures go up as we sail eventually into warmer waters the upper decks will be covered with bodies oiled and tanning in the sun so that one fears tripping, falling and killing someone by one's sheer dead weight! As you tip toe through nervously nobody moves, nobody rolls out of your path...forget ownership of any part of the ship. Fit yourself in where you can, physically and in every other way. Our cabin became our refuge on many occasions....oh and the faculty/staff lounge which is now just a few steps away from our cabin. For Profs it is the only place where they can be safe from the questions and demands of their students. This is a living-learning experience for all of us and it takes some adjustment to get used to it.



Ultimately living-learning becomes the norm: eating meals with students and other faculty and Life long learners, only having a few square feet of space to call ones own and for George being on call and available at least 12 hours a day. I learned on our last voyage to create a life for myself with close friends and classmates occasionally enjoying my husband's company privately in our cabin. Hey who says I'm not adaptable...it is one quality I have truly earned over the years of my life! As has George.

I was asked by Tina, a new aquaintance, whether I would be interested in a play reading of Copenhagen? Would I?! Imagine this particular play and no lines to learn....how could I refuse? How could George? Quite lifted me spirits it did!

Had my first pedicure of the voyage tonight.....ah bliss! Done by a delightful young South African woman from near Hermanus. I told her of the recent shark attack at Fish Hoek which she hadn't heard about. A Zimbabwean man, a tourist, swimming not too far out was attacked by an enormous shark (they are calling it a "dinosaur" shark) and no remains have been found. The beach was closed but has just opened with bathers being warned only to go waist deep. Scary stuff.

Back to my feet! I suddenly noticed the time as Cosika was about to paint my nails a lovely deep red (George groans) and knew that we would miss supper if i didn't leave immediately....George was waiting in the cabin....and this what is so great about this Spa, "Come back tomorrow afternoon to have them painted" she said "Go and get your supper now!" Would that happen in Hamilton? I don't believe so.

Tomorrow afternoon I am helping to guide students to the gangway....I think even I should manage that! In fact they won't be as brilliant as we have been led to believe if they can't see it for themselves! We have been told to SMILE...I think I'll just about manage that as well!

Tonight George and I watched the BBC version of Hay Fever on our lap top. I can honestly say that Penelope Keith was not as good as Pat Howlett in the role of Myra. And Pat, if you're reading this, your favourite scene with George lacked the chemistry of the two of you too! This was George's Christmas present to me : The Complete plays of Noel Coward as done by the BBC. We have already had many hours of enjoyment at home and it is going to entertain us in the evenings in our cabin for weeks to come.

Tonight we sat with the Administrative Assistant and her husband for dinner.. (Theresa, Nilo and Mindy, this is Luke's replacement).....what a change of style and it's all good. Diane is from Tennessee, has the most charming Southern accent and is a delight over the intercom. Also she is approachable and helpful which bodes well does it not?

It is time to write a letter to my grandson and then go to bed. George is already sound asleep. Does that sound familiar? I know it was the case on many occasions as I wrote my previous blog on the last voyage.

I miss you all: previous ship mates and all of you at home. We are still three hours behind you so you are probably all tucked up and asleep....as the snow and temperatures drop outside!? Actually it is pretty cool here too, although hats are only required in the sunshine and gloves and mitts not at all!

Friday, January 15, 2010

A quiet day in Ensenada

Friday 15th january.

No we have not been ashore. Ensenada does not get a good press from those who know so we are not rushing. We shall hope to make it on Sunday when there are no more meetings to attend.

There is little to write about of interest but from my own point of view I am enjoying just being aboard, catching up with the dining room stewards who tell me they spent three weeks here over Christmas and New Year and froze in very cold temperatures. How they manage to be so up beat and cheerful every single moment impresses me greatly. The huge grins on their faces are so warm and welcoming and they seem to remember my ('our' Nilo, Theresa and Beth!) weakness for desserts. Mandy sneaked two chocolate cream rolls for George and me at lunch and said in a whisper 'before they all disappear' as we were rather late into the dining room! It's so nice to be made a fuss of.

The seals were making a fearful noise to each other this afternoon: I think someone should study their language because they were definitely chatting. Low barks responding to higher tone barks followed by one somewhere in between. "Anyone hungry' 'Sure, wanna go fishin'?' "Hey you two can I come?' and then great plops and splashes as they head off to MacWhiskers on the other side of the sea wall. Great thesis material here........you can tell nothing much exciting happened today can't you?

We.ve just been to our Logistical Pre-port on Ensenada. It seems I was mistaken and it does have some interesting places to visit: art galleries, museums and a multitude of restaurants. We'll wait till Sunday and sample the fare then whilst Liz and Audrey are coming aboard. They have an orientation at 2.30 and we sail at 5pm so we have to be back by three. Then we'll get them into the wine and FORCE them to relax. We noticed that our information sheet from the dean's office states that we sail from Halifax at 5 pm??! Well it'll be nice to be on Canadian soil again....presumably there will have to be an almight dash to get there tomorrow? Ah the blessings of computer templates!

Newsflash for Nilo and Beth. At the pre-port, when they were using slides to tell us of the two dining room times on Sunday, up came this beautiful photo of the two of you sitting at a table grinning into the camera! I wanted to shout 'I know them!' but George restrained me....oh I just wished you were both here.

We're now sitting quietly in our cabin enjoying a glass of wine....it's 6.30 pm. Outside the wharf lights are making golden paths on the calm harbour water. We sail out to sea again at 10 am tomorrow returning at 6 pm. We are letting another cruise ship into our berth for those hours and are grateful for the smooth sea outside the harbour entrance. It is quie cool both inside and outside the ship. We have turned the heating on in the cabin because the air conditioning goes a bit wild.

Off to supper and more tomorrow.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

On Board at last

Thursday 14th Jan

Here we are finally on board the Explorer and settled into our beautiful cabin. What did I ever do to deserve this?!

We wandered round San Diego yesterday morning as the hotel had let us keep our room until 2 pm which was gracious of them. The Gas Lamp Area where we were consists of streets of old picturesque, restored buildings....of mixed eras and colours. Not so long ago many of them looked ripe for destruction but the decision was made, because of the proximity of a new base ball stadium, to upgrade the whole surrounding area, so they were restored and beautified. Most seem to be restaurants but there are a few shops scattered between. One of these happened to be a travel shop so I found the electric coil I had been searching for and bought in a pharmacy nearby some motion sickness wrist bands...just in case.

We arrived at the port shortly after two and were very soon aboard. No hassles or delay which was wonderful after enduring airport security in Toronto and Calgary. We were greeted almost at once, for those of you who know, by Becca and Kate. Unfortunately Kate will leave us on Sunday: she is now working permanently in Charlottesville and says proudly that she has managed to "stay put" for four months....something of an achievement for Kate!

When we were told our cabin number (I had prepared myself for the possible disappointment of not having a balcony this time around) I realised we had struck gold. It is 7004....John Serio's on the Spring 2009 voyage, We have a huge deck with 2 chaises longues and a table AND 2 chairs. The cabin is much larger than 5008: it is very spacious, and again we are on the Port side. which hopefully means the magnificent view of Table Mountain in Cape Town! All this information especially for Theresa, Nilo, Mindy and Beth.

We had the strangest boat drill last night. It was to be at 9 pm so, knowing this, I was all ready in my life jacket, closed toed shoes on and carrying a hat, when over the intercom came the announcement 'all passengers to the Union for boat drill'! The Union?! Well... that's where we went. The Explorer's safety officer took the drill as we all sat around as though for Global Studies, and after hushing us he told us in his very Russian accent how important silence is, so that we would hear instructions, (but would we understand them?!). He showed us how to wear and use the life jacket, answered some questions (What do we do if we're attacked by Somali pirates in the Indian ocean?....Honestly!) and packed us off to our cabins. I was glad to hear the Semester at Sea chief Doctor remark this morning that he had never in all his years at sea experienced a boat drill like that one! We shall of course have a proper one on Sunday evening when with everyone aboard, we leave for Hilo, Hawaii.

We set sail for Ensenada, Mexico at 11 pm last night....George and I were already in bed asleep! At about 2 am the ship started to rock, roll and pitch as it tore through the water at speed. Objects slid and fell in the cabin and bathroom and I thought sleepily 'Oh dear!' and promptly fell asleep again: George on the other hand got up and secured our precious bottles of wine! There was much talk this morning at breakfast of the rough night which had taken most people by surprise....I thought "You ain't seen nuthin' yet!" but wisely kept mum.

We anchored in port at Enselada at 8 am this morning and the seas outside the sea wall must still be rough because even at anchor we are experiencing lots of movement. We shall be going out to sea tomorrow and returning on Sunday morning to pick up the students and Life Long learners...Liz and Audrey included.

George and I saw a seal swimming just below us as we leaned over the balcony and then discovered when we walked round to the starboard deck that there is a little colony of seals at the end of the wharf wall. They were basking and barking in the sun....what a racket but lovely to watch.

Wwe sat in the faculty lounge tonight sipping our pre-dinner drinks and gazing at a lovely sunset sky and the lights on the hills of Enselada twinkled in the fading light. Berthed nearby was the Carnival liner Elation....she was garlanded with lights from stem to stern, an impressive sight.

All the dining room stewards are back and gave us quite a warm welcome: I remember their many talents and skills from the great entertainment they gave us in the Union last year and appreciate them on many levels. Our cabin steward is Crispen, a delightful man who has been working on this ship for many years.

More meetings tomorrow for George and I shall attend in the morning and lie on our balcony in the sun all afternoon.....quel vie! I miss you all and must thank Fiona, Tessa, Bryn, Jo S, Dia and Lynn for emails which I hope to answer tomorrow.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

San Diego

12th January 2010.

San Diego is a beautiful city and we have spent much of today walking around parts of it. This morning the area round the Indigo Hotel (which is new and lovely built in a retro 1930's style...?Art Decco). The people are wonderfully friendly and helpful, the weather I hardly dare tell you is sunny and warm but cool in the shade and we need sweaters at night...perfect!

We picked up two of our 4 permitted bottles of wine in the local supermarket, couldn't find the electric coil but will try again in Hawaii (doesn't that sound casual?!) and bought two pairs of underpants for George. "I put a pile of them out ready three months ago" he told me "and then forgot to pack them!".... what can I say?

We had a good lunch at a Boston Eatery but I have to say alot of food still tastes like sawdust to me. Who knew the effects of food poisoning would last so long. Then we decided to visit the world famous San Diego zoo. It is in a beautiful setting on top of a hill and the designs of the animal areas are quite brilliant...each appropriate for the animal, the climate and the area of the world it originates from. To be honest i have never approved of zoos but these days I'm aware that they are rescuing animals, birds and, in this one, fish under threat of extinction. I won't bore you with a list of all we saw but I did see my very first Giant Panda sitting on the ground, leaning against a low wall, oblivious of all the 'gazers' and stripping a stick of what I think was bamboo. He looked "cuddly" and I wanted to touch and hug him....very inappropriate behaviour on my part but there you are. One was tempted to do the same to the huge cats and you know how sensible that would have been.... The animals had glossy coats and some looked positively chubby and the birds exotic and brilliantly coloured. The Koala bears were all asleep...they were a first for me too....and I discovered that the fact that they sleep so much because they are all drugged on Eucalyptus leaves, (which I had proudly told George who as you know knows everything and didn't know that), was a myth...I might have known! The truth is apparently that they are exhausted from eating all the fibre in those leaves....well...I don't know... sounds far fetched to me.

Tonight we met up with our old friend Lynn Banker who was in the group I took to Scotland some years ago. We arranged to meet her on the 9th floor of the Indigo which is an outdoor bar overlooking the city which we enjoyed last night. She arrived first and we found her talking to a woman with a dog...."Tonight is dog's night" she told us....dog's night in a bar? OK....one dog really doesn't make a dog's night. Oops here are a few more...and more. We sat down, ordered our drinks and were soon surrounded by dogs of all sizes and breeds plus their very cheerful owners. The dogs rushed around excitedly but were amazingly well behaved and I couldn't help thinking how much our little Bichon/terrier Bess would have enjoyed the occasion.....with her cousins Meg and Chai from Sudbury! We were heated by gas flames penetrating teel coloured glass chips in rectangular 'beds' and high gas lamps....very picturesque and warming.

We had dinner in a Thai restaurant just up the road and talked and talked. Already the fact that we have friends living far too far from Dundas, whom we would like to see much more often, has registered forcibly. Theresa and John in Calgary and Lynn in California....thank you so much for making the effort to see us, what a gift.

Tomorrow at 2 pm we board the Explorer. There is a 50% chance of rain apparently....oh well, hate to say it but it's better than freezing in a snow storm.....just kidding! So next time I blog I shall be doing so from our cabin....at sea again.

We're on our way....

We are on our way! We flew to San Diego yesterday from Toronto via Calgary where we had a happy meeting with Theresa and John Mueller. We wanted to pack them up and take them with us again...we shall miss them hugely.



Security was easy compared to my worried imagination, everyone was pleasant and sensitive...the young RCMP woman who 'frisked' me even asked if I had any paricularly sensitive areas on my body....I wanted to say Everywhere but restrained myself.



Taking a step back I had a most unpleasant and untimely attack of food poisoning on our last night in the Airport Sheraton in Toronto. Fiona, John, Bryn and ourselves had stopped for lunch in Oakville where I had a delicious chicken curry and I fear that was the cause of the problem. I had the feeling of impending death I can tell you! I can't ever remember having such pain and sickness. In between visits to the loo I thought I shall never make it on to the plane, I shall have to join George somewhere else....oh God let me just die! You know the feeling...



However....I woke up from a deep sleep at 3.30 am feeling much better, not strong enough to have a much needed shower but nevertheless able to get myself dressed and stagger to the shuttle at 4.10 am. George coped with everything and thanked goodness we had requested wheel chair assistance from Air Canada when I still had the haematoma in my leg. I was so very grateful for it . We had help everywhere.



So we have woken up to a beautiful San Diego day. MV Explorer is not in port yet but many ginormous (gross) ships are...they have absolutely no look of the sea about them to my eyes...just like gigantic concrete blocks, so unromantic! Whilst our ship is a vessel of great beauty....again to my somewhat prejudiced eye! Believe me there were occasions on or last trip when it was sheer heaven to catch a homecoming glimpse of her.....most especially I remember after my 10 km trek through the jungle (old Vietkong trails) in Cat tien National Park in Vietnam....but actually every time we returned to the ship there was feeling of joy and relief to be home!



We have had delicious morning coffee in our great Queen sized beds feeling like Royalty...same coffee maker as yours Tessa so we know how it works! The sunlight on the beautiful skyscrapers against a soft blue sky makes a wonderful backdrop to our day. We have some urgent last minute shopping to do: an electrical coil to boil water on board for tea (strictly illegal) but much as I love them one thing the Americans cannot do is make a decent cup of tea so it's absolutely imperative. I have brought my own tea with me too as the on-board Liptons is insipid to say the least.....no more whining Maggie. On with the day!

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

For the days dwindle down to a precious few

January 6th

The days are flying by and our departure date approaches. Yesterday Carol, our monthly cleaning lady, made our now-fairly-tidy-(for us)-apartment sparkle and look welcoming for Jody who arrives to live here for 4 months on Friday. It takes so little doesn't it for that 'lived in' look to re-emerge?

I had sprayed our oven with Oven-Off but had not got round to cleaning it, which George has magnanimously offered to do. (!!!) However, he forgot that I had sprayed it tonight and heated some pita bread in it! I cannot imagine what the Oven-Off fumes do to pita bread ...he looks alright so far...fingers crossed!

I have extracted promises from friends Tammy and Julie today that they will email me while we are sailing round the world. Last time I didn't hear from many except Dia, who was my constant correspondent and oh how I appreciated it. So this is a heart-felt plea to you all to keep in touch and let me know what's happening in your neck of the woods...be it Kirkwall, Sudbury, Dundas, Hamilton, Toronto, Victoria, Nelson, Scotland or England, Naivasha or Cape Town , Arusha or Zanzibar, Brisbane or Perth!

This time two friends will be sailing with us: Liz and Audrey. I look forward so much to showing them round the Explorer...our home from home. We used to catch sight of the MV Explorer sitting proudly in dock after we had been away for a few days on shore and I think all of us without exception would think "There she is! Our beautiful floating home from home!" It was said and felt with great joy and relief. I look forward so much to seeing her again.

Perhaps more tomorrow....when I have squeezed into my already full suitcase the pile of small and not-so-small things waiting to be fitted in somewhere. I fear the US security regulations because my Canadian passport states my place of birth as "Karachi, Pakistan" when in fact it was still 'India' when I was born. And Pakistan is on Barak Obama's 'list'! My UK passport wisely says 'India'. Ah well keep fingers crossed again.