A day on Hilo

Tuesday 26th January

I realise how very fortunate we are to be telling you it has been hot today on this date. A remark of Jo S's triggered that thought "if you are snowed in" she said trying to persuade her friends to fill in something (haven't done it yet Jo, it's been too hot....just kidding).

George had an early start as he had to move our rental car from just outside the wharf before 6 am. However the harbour security were helpful and he was able to park near our new pier...number 3. (Into pier 1 slid a huge cruise ship which dwarfs the Explorer). He returned after a very short time and we had breakfast (I'll spare you the details!) and then met Liz and Audrey at the foot of the gangway (to begin our coastal drive in the opposite direction from last night) at 9am.

Our first stop was Walmart actually but no luck in finding my photo cable connection for the computer, I hope for better luck in Honolulu. The pressure of George sitting waiting with L & A in the car was great (L & A having Walmarted yeasterday), also it was certainly no fun wandering around the store away from the sun and sea.

The scenic route round the North East of the island was spectacular: sheer drops down tree studded cliffs to rocky inlets and crashing waves. The road itself was in superb condition just recently tarmacked and smooth as can be.

We visited Akaka Falls in the middle of dense forest ((with an enormous variety of trees): there is a paved path and steps to the falls which is about half a mile, up and down, from the car park. I set off on my own because Audrey and George were discussing the drinking of beer surreptitiously (not of course permitted in public) and I didn't imagine that Liz would want to do the walk. It was all in the shade and there was a cool, damp feeling in the air. I had glimpses of the white froth through the trees but when I reached the end there was this marvellous waterfall, narrow and steep dropping hundreds of feet into a dark, rocky pool and continuing its way tumbling towards the sea. I hope that when I eventually put some photos on to the blog they will do it justice.

I started my route back up to the car and who should I meet walking slowly down but George...obviously the secret beerfest hadn't taken place. He went merrily on his way and a few minutes later there were Liz and Audrey gamely descending the steps. Remember you have to go back again I said severely to Liz. "We shall only turn back" she replied "when we meet George on his return" . So we went our separate ways and I soon reached the parking lot and sat myself down on a cool stone wall under a tree. After about half an hour George appeared...alone. Where are Liz and Audrey? "Oh I did the whole circular route and saw some other waterfalls" said George "Let's go and drink a beer." Jo and Nora will understand: I started worrying about Liz. Is this pushing things too far? Will it prove to be too much for her? Should I go and search in case she and Audrey need help? Will they keep waiting for George?

How do men manage to compartmentalise so well? George sits in a shady corner drinking his beer like a naughty schoolboy in 7th heaven while I am tearing myself apart wondering what to do. Suddenly I see them...walking firmly and steadily, almost at the top of the last climb, barely out of breath. 'We decided he had done the whole circuit so we turned back at the falls' says Liz. George shakes his head at me and whispers "When will you ever learn?" To do what? To mind my own business? Probably never.

We decide against the Botanical Gardens because we are so much enjoying the coastal road. We stop at the sea end of the Akaka Falls at a spot known as Kole Kole Point. We walk across an open grassy field towards the sea and watch the dark waters flowing into the surf where three young men are body surfing and swimming under the waves to wait for the big ones. I remember the joys of body surfing as a teen ager in South Africa but that was off open beaches and here there are rocks jutting up and only a narrow bay to avoid them....looks dangerous. but it's a great spectator sport.

We are all hungry so we drive on until we find a small Hawaiian grocery store, with one plastic table and four chairs, outside and which offers smoothies, Hawaaiian 'plates' and sandwiches. The three women opt for sandwiches, which are obscenely fat, and George waits interminably for "Pig, I ordered Pig". ..one of the 'plates'. Eventually I say this is ridiculous George go and ask them where it is, and he does his coy "Go on you do it...you do it so much better than I"... I don't argue, it's been nearly 40 minutes, "My husband ordered a Hawaiian plate of pork" I say tentatively to a woman making peanut butter sandwiches inside....OH MY GOD! she screams I FORGOT! I'M SOOO Sorry! and within five minutes George is eating his lunch.

We drive back into Hilo and pay a last visit to a little beach just up the road from the port. We look at the ships and realise that we shall be sailing again tonight, this time to Honolulu. George drops us off at the entrance to the port and returns the car to Enterprise. The whole deal costs us US$ 34.00. Because we didn't as promised get picked up by a shuttle and had to take a cab he lopped $10.00 off yesterday. Today he said 'Forget the gas, we kept you waiting' so, the final total including taxes was as above. Not a bad deal considering we had driven over a great part of the island. The car was a larger one than I had ordered too, a Dodge: very spacious and comfortable. Quite a change from our Yaris for the two passengers! Then I wonder....perhaps there was a deal on for only $ 20.00 anyway? Aren't I horribly suspicious? Perhaps he was just a nice man.

The ship which is berthed in our previous pier 1 is the Holland America's Zaandam. She looks good for a large ship, not like a concrete block, she looks like a proper ship and the Explorer looks tiny beside her.

George is sitting on a chaise longue on the deck drinking a Campari...makes a change from my usual parting sentence doesn't it? It's 5 pm here and10 pm in Ontario Jo (or 2200 hours in nautical language and what our administrative assistant kept announcing in the thousands over the intercom not having had this job before!). Liz and Audrey are coming up for drinks.

22.00 hours here:

We sat happily on the deck until about 6.30 and had the excitement of watching the gangway being drawn up and parked in it's slot over our heads: it lies almost directlyabove our deck/balcony whilst we are at sea.

After supper we watched as the main tug, of three, guided, prodded and pulled us out of the harbour entrance and saw the pilot leap off the Explorer onto it....quite a feat I always think, especially in heavy seas, but tonight it's beautifully calm. There is an almost full moon shining on the churning water and far in the distance we saw the receding glow of the Zaandam which sailed just before we did. Ships that pass in the night....

Now George is watching the moonlit sea and drinking a brandy as we speed along at 23 knots....what's the hurry I wonder? George thinks our Captain is showing off and wants to reach Honolulu before the Zaandam! We shall reach the very central docks in Honolulu at 6 am but there is no pressure to get up early, no more immigration formalities to go through, just two glorious days on Oahu (we shall be relaxing at Waikiki) before we sail out into the great Pacific for nine sea days before reaching Yokohama and Japan. Keep fingers crossed for good weather and calm seas.

Nearly time for bed and a good book.