Thursday, February 25, 2010
Sunrise and our 4 'daughters' on our balcony
Centre above: HeatherRight " : Kirsten
Left: " : Meng Ning
Above Left: Sunrise this morningRight: Katie
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
More about Lantau Island and Monastery
Thursday...continuing the story...
After a refreshing hour or so in the fishing village of Tai O we returned to the bus and were driven through green hills up to the largest bronze, sitting, outside Buddha, possibly in the world but certainly, and more probably, in China. We could see the bronze image as we approached from about a mile away, staring out to the horizon on top of a high hill. Standing directly beneath this wonderfully benevolent statue it's hard to take it all in. There is a shrine underneath the image where a small piece of bone, taken from the ashes of his cremation, lies encased in glass. A holy relic. We climbed two flights of stairs and queued to pass and gaze at the tiny, precious, reddish brown bone...to do so is to achieve peace and happiness we were told.
Our first stop after viewing the relic was (going literally from the sublime to the ridiculous) to make our way to "The biggest toilet in China" which our guide kept recommending that we do....quite paternalistic he was. "There are many, many, you won't have to wait at all' he said proudly in his very British English. Suffice to say that he was correct, this shrine is definitely geared to tourists.
We walked then to the nearby Buddhist monastery for a vegetarian lunch. We expected some peaceful place where we might sit cross legged on the floor being served by monks. Not so. We entered a large air conditioned restaurant and were served by a hundred waiters and waitresses. In the centre of each large round table was a wood carousel on which multiple steaming bowls were placed and from which we helped ourselves into even smaller bowls and ate the delicious offerings with plastic chopstickes and a little china spoon for soup. Apart from anything else it was a relief to sit down on comfortable chairs and drink lots of jasmine tea and iced water....the temperature had risen and, as we had had no way of knowing that it would, most of us were expiring in jackets and sweaters.
After lunch and a walk outside with George through peaceful little gardens spaced apart we again boarded the bus to be taken to the to a cable station from which we descended, eight at a time. in gondolas. We swung slowly down looking at fantastic views of green hills, huge reservoirs and finally the Hong Kong Airport where we could see planes taking off and landing and parked by the terminal like little white toys.
I thought about the fact that the stunning and graceful suspension bridges we had seen and all the superb roads and the gondola technology have all been produced by Hong Kong in a very short space of time. Apartment buildings are sprouting out of the ground on Lantau Island, housing some of the overflow from Hong Kong, which has absolutely nowhere to go but up or out to sea on reclaimed land. It seems that whenever the city fathers decide that some specific complex or building is required close to the city, more sea is drained and more land reclaimed. What is impressive is the speed with which each project is completed. No sooner thought of than up it goes. There's an awful lot of money in Hong Kong!
Where was I? oh yes.....
It had been a wonderful day but we were all glad to reach the Explorer and retreat to our cool cabins for a long drink and to put our feet up. We had an early supper followed almost immediately by boat drill.
We all performed dutifully and quietly and stood (almost) silently for what seemed like a very long time. Backs started to ache, an elderly woman was excused and escorted to her cabin, children were allowed to leave with their parents....and still we stood there. Eventually a voice came over the loudspeaker "would ------ from cabin number---- please come to the boat drill on deck 5?" This message was repeated a number of times...and still we stood there. We were due to sail at 8 pm and we wanted to watch our last light show of the Hong Kong harbour front at that time and to wave a sad goodbye to what for many has become a favourite port city...myself included. At last the miscreant was discovered. She had apparently lost her cabin key card, tried to get another from the purser's desk so she could pick up her life jacket. ( Of course it would make sense in an emergency to get oneself up to the boat deck stat where a life jacket would be given to anyone unable to access their own.) Once she was located we were permitted to 'stand down'. That poor student was no one's favourite person for a while.... topics of conversations come in all sizes!
We were able to wave Hong Kong a fond farewell (Ah me!) as the coloured lights and lasers beamed across the sky and flooded the buildings and the river in front of us. We watched as the tug pulled us out from the quay and picked up the pilot. We made great speed after that, past a million glowing skyscrapers, before finally reaching dark hills and the sea.
Today:
Global Studies turned today towards Vietnam and the Vietnam war. I remember watching newsreels of the war every night at supper time in Toronto, Nelson and Peterborough...I only trusted Walter Kronkite! I also remember fund raising to support draft dodgers in Nelson. That was when I experienced the first stirrings of passionate anti war feelings which have steadfastly remained a part of my belief system up to the present. I count myself an active anti war protester. I am remembering our 'baring witness' demonstration in the snow covered field at Lisbie's place in Flamborough...it felt like 20 degrees below zero...as we lay on the freezing ground, 24 naked women forming the peace sign. The Iraq war was about to begin...I suppose we hoped, like millions of others around the world, that if we made a strong statement, someone would listen. How naive we were.
By the way that brilliant idea went round the world from California so that the Baring Witness website filled with photos.... the Dundas View magazine showed one and The Hamilton Spectator...none! The original photo which inspired Lisbie and me was taken in Cape Town with Table Mountain as its back drop.
To get back to the voyage!
We had a moving presentation from two very emotional Vietnam veterans and one anti war protester from that time. Necessary I suppose but I wonder when it will be possible to move on from the guilt, pain and anger of that war and to concentrate on the present day and the people and country of Vietnam? I believe it is felt that the young must be made aware of the dreadful sufferings and loss on both sides: this presentation received a standing ovation from the young people on this ship.
Tonight we have our shipboard family to our cabin at 5.30 and then to supper together. It will be interesting to hear all their views and news...we haven't met for a few countries!
I'm not sure when I shall be on here again. We arrive in Saigon tomorrow morning and the next day we leave for an overnight trip to a coastal town north of Saigon....or Ho Chi Minh city if you must.
After a refreshing hour or so in the fishing village of Tai O we returned to the bus and were driven through green hills up to the largest bronze, sitting, outside Buddha, possibly in the world but certainly, and more probably, in China. We could see the bronze image as we approached from about a mile away, staring out to the horizon on top of a high hill. Standing directly beneath this wonderfully benevolent statue it's hard to take it all in. There is a shrine underneath the image where a small piece of bone, taken from the ashes of his cremation, lies encased in glass. A holy relic. We climbed two flights of stairs and queued to pass and gaze at the tiny, precious, reddish brown bone...to do so is to achieve peace and happiness we were told.
Our first stop after viewing the relic was (going literally from the sublime to the ridiculous) to make our way to "The biggest toilet in China" which our guide kept recommending that we do....quite paternalistic he was. "There are many, many, you won't have to wait at all' he said proudly in his very British English. Suffice to say that he was correct, this shrine is definitely geared to tourists.
We walked then to the nearby Buddhist monastery for a vegetarian lunch. We expected some peaceful place where we might sit cross legged on the floor being served by monks. Not so. We entered a large air conditioned restaurant and were served by a hundred waiters and waitresses. In the centre of each large round table was a wood carousel on which multiple steaming bowls were placed and from which we helped ourselves into even smaller bowls and ate the delicious offerings with plastic chopstickes and a little china spoon for soup. Apart from anything else it was a relief to sit down on comfortable chairs and drink lots of jasmine tea and iced water....the temperature had risen and, as we had had no way of knowing that it would, most of us were expiring in jackets and sweaters.
After lunch and a walk outside with George through peaceful little gardens spaced apart we again boarded the bus to be taken to the to a cable station from which we descended, eight at a time. in gondolas. We swung slowly down looking at fantastic views of green hills, huge reservoirs and finally the Hong Kong Airport where we could see planes taking off and landing and parked by the terminal like little white toys.
I thought about the fact that the stunning and graceful suspension bridges we had seen and all the superb roads and the gondola technology have all been produced by Hong Kong in a very short space of time. Apartment buildings are sprouting out of the ground on Lantau Island, housing some of the overflow from Hong Kong, which has absolutely nowhere to go but up or out to sea on reclaimed land. It seems that whenever the city fathers decide that some specific complex or building is required close to the city, more sea is drained and more land reclaimed. What is impressive is the speed with which each project is completed. No sooner thought of than up it goes. There's an awful lot of money in Hong Kong!
Where was I? oh yes.....
It had been a wonderful day but we were all glad to reach the Explorer and retreat to our cool cabins for a long drink and to put our feet up. We had an early supper followed almost immediately by boat drill.
We all performed dutifully and quietly and stood (almost) silently for what seemed like a very long time. Backs started to ache, an elderly woman was excused and escorted to her cabin, children were allowed to leave with their parents....and still we stood there. Eventually a voice came over the loudspeaker "would ------ from cabin number---- please come to the boat drill on deck 5?" This message was repeated a number of times...and still we stood there. We were due to sail at 8 pm and we wanted to watch our last light show of the Hong Kong harbour front at that time and to wave a sad goodbye to what for many has become a favourite port city...myself included. At last the miscreant was discovered. She had apparently lost her cabin key card, tried to get another from the purser's desk so she could pick up her life jacket. ( Of course it would make sense in an emergency to get oneself up to the boat deck stat where a life jacket would be given to anyone unable to access their own.) Once she was located we were permitted to 'stand down'. That poor student was no one's favourite person for a while.... topics of conversations come in all sizes!
We were able to wave Hong Kong a fond farewell (Ah me!) as the coloured lights and lasers beamed across the sky and flooded the buildings and the river in front of us. We watched as the tug pulled us out from the quay and picked up the pilot. We made great speed after that, past a million glowing skyscrapers, before finally reaching dark hills and the sea.
Today:
Global Studies turned today towards Vietnam and the Vietnam war. I remember watching newsreels of the war every night at supper time in Toronto, Nelson and Peterborough...I only trusted Walter Kronkite! I also remember fund raising to support draft dodgers in Nelson. That was when I experienced the first stirrings of passionate anti war feelings which have steadfastly remained a part of my belief system up to the present. I count myself an active anti war protester. I am remembering our 'baring witness' demonstration in the snow covered field at Lisbie's place in Flamborough...it felt like 20 degrees below zero...as we lay on the freezing ground, 24 naked women forming the peace sign. The Iraq war was about to begin...I suppose we hoped, like millions of others around the world, that if we made a strong statement, someone would listen. How naive we were.
By the way that brilliant idea went round the world from California so that the Baring Witness website filled with photos.... the Dundas View magazine showed one and The Hamilton Spectator...none! The original photo which inspired Lisbie and me was taken in Cape Town with Table Mountain as its back drop.
To get back to the voyage!
We had a moving presentation from two very emotional Vietnam veterans and one anti war protester from that time. Necessary I suppose but I wonder when it will be possible to move on from the guilt, pain and anger of that war and to concentrate on the present day and the people and country of Vietnam? I believe it is felt that the young must be made aware of the dreadful sufferings and loss on both sides: this presentation received a standing ovation from the young people on this ship.
Tonight we have our shipboard family to our cabin at 5.30 and then to supper together. It will be interesting to hear all their views and news...we haven't met for a few countries!
I'm not sure when I shall be on here again. We arrive in Saigon tomorrow morning and the next day we leave for an overnight trip to a coastal town north of Saigon....or Ho Chi Minh city if you must.
farewell depression
Thursday February 25th
I suppose all writers, even of simple letters, get writer's block occasionally and that seems to have happened to me. I hate good byes and in Asia we seem to be saying good bye every few days! Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Hong Kong and tomorrow we arrive in Saigon, Vietnam. I haven't even told you about Hong Kong which we left the night before last. So my diagnosis is a newly discovered condition by the Chinese, it is "too-many-farewells-to-beautiful-places- depression" ....I'm sure it's all one word in their musical language. Musical that is when they're not shouting. the Chinese are shouters. We heard a mother screaming at her daughter outside a restaurant in Shanghai; I thought there had been a terrible accident or perhaps a terrorist attack when I saw this little girl, about six years old, standing petrified on the restaurant steps, pale faced and rigid. When she noticed us Mum gave a huge grin and waved and I wondered if it was all in the day's routine.
The only place we saw children running wild was in the Shanghai cultural museum. There are numerous very official looking uniformed guards standing around but they just smiled benevolently. We were somewhat astounded having some idea of the enormous cultural and monetry value of the artifacts all around us beautfully displayed in glass cases. I feared the shattering of glass at any moment.
I cheated yesterday by putting photos on the blog which is a mindless and frustrating job but at least you can see a little of where we've been. No matter how meticulously I arrange the photos, when I publish them, they, and their titles, do very much their own thing. So I apologise for the chaos. My dear and very much missed friend Theresa Mueller, who taught me how to put them on in the first place on our last voyage, is researching the problem and will get back to me. Thank you Theresa! Apologies to the IT department at the University of Calgary for the distraction!
Back to our last day in Hong Kong: slightly muggy but no rain and the sun successfully struggling to shine through. We joined an SAS trip to Lantau island. We travelled by bus from the ship in Kyloon by road and suspension bridge to this new and far less populated island on which the new Hong Kong airport has been built and a virtually new town serviced by magnificent roads.
This was once a peaceful and undeveloped place, with lushly covered hills and the coast line dotted with fishing villages and undeveloped sandy beaches where Hong Kong-ites had holiday homes where they could go for respite from the teeming streets and claustrophobic skyscrapers of HK. The then British government was in negotiations with China and wanted to build a new Airport. China didn't want to spend the millions it would take to do it. However, when the Tienamen Square Massacre happened and China was distracted, the Brits went ahead and built it. People who have flown into the old airport speak about the frightening approach over the sea on to what felt like an alarmingly short runway.
Beyond the airport and the new town there is still a part of the island which is green and peaceful and has thus far escaped the relentless persuit of land on which to build for the ever expanding population of Hong Kong. We drove to an almost deserted beach which looked very inviting in spite of a notice which read "The shark nets have been dismantled. We apologise for any inconvenience"! Yes it would be a little 'inconvenient' to lose a leg, an arm or even one's life I suppose?!
It goes without saying that one of the students tore off everything but his underpants, ran into the sea and swam to the nearest smooth topped rock where he sat for some time in the sun looking for all the world like the Little Mermaid in Copenhagen...a sort of Peter Pan version.
(I have just rushed out on to the balcony to snap the dramatic red sun rise over this South China sea. Red sky in the morning, shepherds' warning? It is certainly rising into dark, dense early morning cloud cover. (it is 6.10 am) The sea is a rippled dark grey, pink tinged, and very calm.George is trying to decide why we are going so slowly now, having sped through the night so that we are practically in Siagon which we don't arrive at officially until tomorrow morning at 8 am. No doubt someone will know the answer to this before the day is out....rumours and gossip abound! And some true facts of course...)
We drove from the beach to the little fishing village and market place of Tai O. It is not a tourist destination yet and it was wonderful to see the people and fisherman going about their daily chores with hardly a glance at us interlopers. The market was fascinating with all sorts, shapes, sizes and conditions of fish. The shrimps, crabs and cray fish were alive and struggling in enamel basins and bowls filled with water and their scrambling bodies....disturbing. Is that how whatever God, if any, views the human condition I wonder?
There were a number of healthy looking dogs running around, one whose head at least closely resembled our beloved Rumpole... a Chinese incarnation? George was wandering past a little open space, me the regulation three paces behind, when a very English voice emanated from a very old Chinese gentleman sitting there. Hello he said where do you come from? There ensued a most surprising conversation. He knew all about Canada, although had never visited himself, asked particularly about the daily newspapers, which he receives from various world capitals. We have agreed to send him a copy of the Globe and Mail! I think he must have been a teacher and possibly served on one of the British armed services or simply grew up and lived in Hong Kong. He told us he was called 'Wilfred' but when he wrote out his address (in a beautiful hand) he also wrote his Chinese name as you will see under the photo I took of him. Never judge a book by its cover; he looked like a poor fisherman from his dress and the bad condition of his teeth....one could have passed him by thinking there would hardly be a point of contact in a common language let alone in common interests.
More later. Time for a shower and breakfast...and because I have been remiss, a new blog.
I suppose all writers, even of simple letters, get writer's block occasionally and that seems to have happened to me. I hate good byes and in Asia we seem to be saying good bye every few days! Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Hong Kong and tomorrow we arrive in Saigon, Vietnam. I haven't even told you about Hong Kong which we left the night before last. So my diagnosis is a newly discovered condition by the Chinese, it is "too-many-farewells-to-beautiful-places- depression" ....I'm sure it's all one word in their musical language. Musical that is when they're not shouting. the Chinese are shouters. We heard a mother screaming at her daughter outside a restaurant in Shanghai; I thought there had been a terrible accident or perhaps a terrorist attack when I saw this little girl, about six years old, standing petrified on the restaurant steps, pale faced and rigid. When she noticed us Mum gave a huge grin and waved and I wondered if it was all in the day's routine.
The only place we saw children running wild was in the Shanghai cultural museum. There are numerous very official looking uniformed guards standing around but they just smiled benevolently. We were somewhat astounded having some idea of the enormous cultural and monetry value of the artifacts all around us beautfully displayed in glass cases. I feared the shattering of glass at any moment.
I cheated yesterday by putting photos on the blog which is a mindless and frustrating job but at least you can see a little of where we've been. No matter how meticulously I arrange the photos, when I publish them, they, and their titles, do very much their own thing. So I apologise for the chaos. My dear and very much missed friend Theresa Mueller, who taught me how to put them on in the first place on our last voyage, is researching the problem and will get back to me. Thank you Theresa! Apologies to the IT department at the University of Calgary for the distraction!
Back to our last day in Hong Kong: slightly muggy but no rain and the sun successfully struggling to shine through. We joined an SAS trip to Lantau island. We travelled by bus from the ship in Kyloon by road and suspension bridge to this new and far less populated island on which the new Hong Kong airport has been built and a virtually new town serviced by magnificent roads.
This was once a peaceful and undeveloped place, with lushly covered hills and the coast line dotted with fishing villages and undeveloped sandy beaches where Hong Kong-ites had holiday homes where they could go for respite from the teeming streets and claustrophobic skyscrapers of HK. The then British government was in negotiations with China and wanted to build a new Airport. China didn't want to spend the millions it would take to do it. However, when the Tienamen Square Massacre happened and China was distracted, the Brits went ahead and built it. People who have flown into the old airport speak about the frightening approach over the sea on to what felt like an alarmingly short runway.
Beyond the airport and the new town there is still a part of the island which is green and peaceful and has thus far escaped the relentless persuit of land on which to build for the ever expanding population of Hong Kong. We drove to an almost deserted beach which looked very inviting in spite of a notice which read "The shark nets have been dismantled. We apologise for any inconvenience"! Yes it would be a little 'inconvenient' to lose a leg, an arm or even one's life I suppose?!
It goes without saying that one of the students tore off everything but his underpants, ran into the sea and swam to the nearest smooth topped rock where he sat for some time in the sun looking for all the world like the Little Mermaid in Copenhagen...a sort of Peter Pan version.
(I have just rushed out on to the balcony to snap the dramatic red sun rise over this South China sea. Red sky in the morning, shepherds' warning? It is certainly rising into dark, dense early morning cloud cover. (it is 6.10 am) The sea is a rippled dark grey, pink tinged, and very calm.George is trying to decide why we are going so slowly now, having sped through the night so that we are practically in Siagon which we don't arrive at officially until tomorrow morning at 8 am. No doubt someone will know the answer to this before the day is out....rumours and gossip abound! And some true facts of course...)
We drove from the beach to the little fishing village and market place of Tai O. It is not a tourist destination yet and it was wonderful to see the people and fisherman going about their daily chores with hardly a glance at us interlopers. The market was fascinating with all sorts, shapes, sizes and conditions of fish. The shrimps, crabs and cray fish were alive and struggling in enamel basins and bowls filled with water and their scrambling bodies....disturbing. Is that how whatever God, if any, views the human condition I wonder?
There were a number of healthy looking dogs running around, one whose head at least closely resembled our beloved Rumpole... a Chinese incarnation? George was wandering past a little open space, me the regulation three paces behind, when a very English voice emanated from a very old Chinese gentleman sitting there. Hello he said where do you come from? There ensued a most surprising conversation. He knew all about Canada, although had never visited himself, asked particularly about the daily newspapers, which he receives from various world capitals. We have agreed to send him a copy of the Globe and Mail! I think he must have been a teacher and possibly served on one of the British armed services or simply grew up and lived in Hong Kong. He told us he was called 'Wilfred' but when he wrote out his address (in a beautiful hand) he also wrote his Chinese name as you will see under the photo I took of him. Never judge a book by its cover; he looked like a poor fisherman from his dress and the bad condition of his teeth....one could have passed him by thinking there would hardly be a point of contact in a common language let alone in common interests.
More later. Time for a shower and breakfast...and because I have been remiss, a new blog.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Images of Hong Kong & Farewell
Right: Fishing boats, fishing village Landau Island
Saying goodbye to Hong Kong last night from the 7th deck aft.
Audrey and Liz enjoying the lights of Hong Kong
Right: Fishing boats in the village of Toi hung
Below: Amy and Lizin Gondola over HK airport
More fishing boats
Saying goodbye to Hong Kong last night from the 7th deck aft.
Audrey and Liz enjoying the lights of Hong Kong
Right: Fishing boats in the village of Toi hung
Below: Amy and Lizin Gondola over HK airport
More fishing boatsSuspension bridge to mainland China
Flowers and Bonsai trees
Right: Beach on Landau island and George at
Flowers and Bonsai trees
Right: Beach on Landau island and George at change over park HK to Landau Island
Right: A Chinese Rumpole!
Below: Live shrimps at market place
Right: Straw hats in market Landau island
Below: Dried fish on sale market place
Above: Live crabs. Right: Fishing village
Above: The Guard of the Buddhist monastry
Right: Choy Shau Lun 'Wilfred' Landau island
Below: Gold fish, Buddhist shrine
Below: The largest, outdoor, sitting, bronze Buddha in China. if not the world!
Right & Left: Flowers in park en route to Landau Island
Right: A Chinese Rumpole!
Below: Live shrimps at market place
Right: Straw hats in market Landau island
Below: Dried fish on sale market place
Above: Live crabs. Right: Fishing village
Above: The Guard of the Buddhist monastry
Right: Choy Shau Lun 'Wilfred' Landau islandBelow: Gold fish, Buddhist shrine
Below: The largest, outdoor, sitting, bronze Buddha in China. if not the world!
Right & Left: Flowers in park en route to Landau IslandMonday, February 22, 2010
Days in Hong Kong and Kyloon
Monday February 22nd
There was no delay in getting ashore here and we set off from the ship at about 10 am yesterday. We are berthed right next to a huge shopping mall so we have to walk through it to exchange money and get the ferry to Hong Kong island. It takes a few minutes to work out the token machines for the ferry but they are so frequent that in no time we were sitting on the slatted wooden benches and riding over to HK island.
We guided Liz and Audrey that far and then took off walkinng into the middle of the Hong Kong banking and luxury shopping district. We headed always uphill towards the Peak Tram, our final destination being Victoria peak. We called in to St John's Anglican church on the way up and watched the Chinese ministers start the opening ceremony of Sunday matins. When one of them read the liturgy his accent was straight out of Oxford or the BBC. Many many more people speak English in Hong Kong than in mainland China....because as one of the other Profs said to George it is "an ex-colony of your ex-country!"
On Sundays all the thousands of Phillipino nannies and maids have their day off and they congregate in down town HK near the Banking Centre. They make up about 3% of the total population. We saw as many if not more Phillipino faces than Chinese.
We finally reached the Peak tram station and queued for about twent minutes before reaching the two carriage tram. The ascent feels perilous and the skyscrapers on each side seem to be standing at angles, almost falling over, but it is dramatic and wide sweeping and ultimately from the top all of Hong Kong lies below, reduced to copeable dimensions. There is a contained feeling as you walk around up there: sky above you, crowds more spread out so that walking doesn't become a battle of shoulders and body thumps as it does slowly manoevering the streets and markets in the central city.
We walked and relished the view and had an easy snack lunch before taking the tram down again and making our way back to the ship through the Sunday crowds. It had remained cloudy but no rain. i was pretty tired after the days up hill activities and we chose to eat a Vietnamese supper in the port terminal.
Here is our personal meu for Sally who must be growing skeletal on vicarious meals! I had a delicious spiced beef soup with noodles...a huge bowl which should have been the meal in itself but I had ordered a Sizzling Saigon Omelette(!!) to follow: George had a plate of large suchi-like rolls followed by pork breast slow boiled in coconut milk! It was all quite delicious Sal but we staggered back to the ship feeling as though we should take a ten mile walk to shake it all down. I had green tea and George a couple of beers.
I am now writing at 6.30 am on Tuesday morning Fenruary 23rd.
Yesterday George and I relaxed in our cabin until about 11 am. It was a miserable looking day and we intended to stay on Kyloon and make our way to the Jade market. There's something very luxurious about having a home base on board so close to everything. Many of our interior mainland China explorers returned tired and happy to the ship and it lost its peaceful spacious feeling very quickly.
The walk to the market is very Chinese, unlike the western look and feel of Hong Kong but it is more open because the buildings aren't as tall and the shops far less elegant and more colourful. i wanted to go to the jade market...not far said George who was studying maps. i had a cold and was dragging somewhat so after walking what felt like miles I suggested a cab. Those of you who know him will know that if it is possible to get there any other way G. will not hail a cab. Oh come on he repeated it really isn't far. I was beginning to slow him down so we opted for the subway. It's only one station said G. meaning it's hardly worth it. It was only one station but it was a really long ride to it! Then of course he had to figure out where we were and we walked another mile or so to find it.
When we did it was a reveation. I have never seen so much jade in one place: it was not unlike the flea market on Hwy 5 where Beryl has her stall but all jade! Buried among the myriad of Buddhas was a small, fat, smiling cream coloured one. It was love at first sight and I had the joy of bargaining for it. She accepted my much, much lower price far too easily so I may have paid too much but he was exactly the man for me....and how often can one say that? I also wanted a heavy and very cheap carved pendant. George was sitting in a chair he chanced upon looking bored stiff and I thought I had better step up the pace. I saw one hanging up and thought it was beautiful but probably too expensive which the seller confirmed. Thinking there may be no point in haggling I turned away shaking my head vigorously. She grabbed my arm with her calculator and said 'you put your number' and I knocked off about 75%. She came up with a still too high figure, I went up about 1% and she finally met me only 5% or so higher. I am very thrilled because a woman on board who knows jade held it up to the light and said "Oh yes! see the light go through it...that's a nice piece of jade." It had taken me less than 15 minutes to make those two purchases. George was suitably flabbergasted.
We came home the same route and I collapsed on the bed exhausted when we reached the cabin. G wanted to eat out and had in fact booked a table for four at a little restaurant we had visited with Ted last year. I knew couldn't face another walk so Liz, Audie, Chris Hill (another Prof) and the two of us went to a Thai restaurant in the port terminal. We had a marvellous meal and lots of laughs....see what meditation and congenial company can do for flagging spirits.
More later.
There was no delay in getting ashore here and we set off from the ship at about 10 am yesterday. We are berthed right next to a huge shopping mall so we have to walk through it to exchange money and get the ferry to Hong Kong island. It takes a few minutes to work out the token machines for the ferry but they are so frequent that in no time we were sitting on the slatted wooden benches and riding over to HK island.
We guided Liz and Audrey that far and then took off walkinng into the middle of the Hong Kong banking and luxury shopping district. We headed always uphill towards the Peak Tram, our final destination being Victoria peak. We called in to St John's Anglican church on the way up and watched the Chinese ministers start the opening ceremony of Sunday matins. When one of them read the liturgy his accent was straight out of Oxford or the BBC. Many many more people speak English in Hong Kong than in mainland China....because as one of the other Profs said to George it is "an ex-colony of your ex-country!"
On Sundays all the thousands of Phillipino nannies and maids have their day off and they congregate in down town HK near the Banking Centre. They make up about 3% of the total population. We saw as many if not more Phillipino faces than Chinese.
We finally reached the Peak tram station and queued for about twent minutes before reaching the two carriage tram. The ascent feels perilous and the skyscrapers on each side seem to be standing at angles, almost falling over, but it is dramatic and wide sweeping and ultimately from the top all of Hong Kong lies below, reduced to copeable dimensions. There is a contained feeling as you walk around up there: sky above you, crowds more spread out so that walking doesn't become a battle of shoulders and body thumps as it does slowly manoevering the streets and markets in the central city.
We walked and relished the view and had an easy snack lunch before taking the tram down again and making our way back to the ship through the Sunday crowds. It had remained cloudy but no rain. i was pretty tired after the days up hill activities and we chose to eat a Vietnamese supper in the port terminal.
Here is our personal meu for Sally who must be growing skeletal on vicarious meals! I had a delicious spiced beef soup with noodles...a huge bowl which should have been the meal in itself but I had ordered a Sizzling Saigon Omelette(!!) to follow: George had a plate of large suchi-like rolls followed by pork breast slow boiled in coconut milk! It was all quite delicious Sal but we staggered back to the ship feeling as though we should take a ten mile walk to shake it all down. I had green tea and George a couple of beers.
I am now writing at 6.30 am on Tuesday morning Fenruary 23rd.
Yesterday George and I relaxed in our cabin until about 11 am. It was a miserable looking day and we intended to stay on Kyloon and make our way to the Jade market. There's something very luxurious about having a home base on board so close to everything. Many of our interior mainland China explorers returned tired and happy to the ship and it lost its peaceful spacious feeling very quickly.
The walk to the market is very Chinese, unlike the western look and feel of Hong Kong but it is more open because the buildings aren't as tall and the shops far less elegant and more colourful. i wanted to go to the jade market...not far said George who was studying maps. i had a cold and was dragging somewhat so after walking what felt like miles I suggested a cab. Those of you who know him will know that if it is possible to get there any other way G. will not hail a cab. Oh come on he repeated it really isn't far. I was beginning to slow him down so we opted for the subway. It's only one station said G. meaning it's hardly worth it. It was only one station but it was a really long ride to it! Then of course he had to figure out where we were and we walked another mile or so to find it.
When we did it was a reveation. I have never seen so much jade in one place: it was not unlike the flea market on Hwy 5 where Beryl has her stall but all jade! Buried among the myriad of Buddhas was a small, fat, smiling cream coloured one. It was love at first sight and I had the joy of bargaining for it. She accepted my much, much lower price far too easily so I may have paid too much but he was exactly the man for me....and how often can one say that? I also wanted a heavy and very cheap carved pendant. George was sitting in a chair he chanced upon looking bored stiff and I thought I had better step up the pace. I saw one hanging up and thought it was beautiful but probably too expensive which the seller confirmed. Thinking there may be no point in haggling I turned away shaking my head vigorously. She grabbed my arm with her calculator and said 'you put your number' and I knocked off about 75%. She came up with a still too high figure, I went up about 1% and she finally met me only 5% or so higher. I am very thrilled because a woman on board who knows jade held it up to the light and said "Oh yes! see the light go through it...that's a nice piece of jade." It had taken me less than 15 minutes to make those two purchases. George was suitably flabbergasted.
We came home the same route and I collapsed on the bed exhausted when we reached the cabin. G wanted to eat out and had in fact booked a table for four at a little restaurant we had visited with Ted last year. I knew couldn't face another walk so Liz, Audie, Chris Hill (another Prof) and the two of us went to a Thai restaurant in the port terminal. We had a marvellous meal and lots of laughs....see what meditation and congenial company can do for flagging spirits.
More later.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Honk Kong today
Sunday 21st February
It is 5.10 am Sunday with us and 4.10 pm saturday in Ontario.
We are sailing slowly into Hong Kong this morning arriving about 8 am.
The Chinese authorities in Shanghai kept us hours longer on the ship than we should have been because of the dicy relationship between China and the US at the moment. President Obama has given millions in aid for missiles to Taiwan and is also meeting with the Dalai Lama, neither action strengthening the precarious bond between the two countries. However this political stuff had obviously not filtered down to the people we met in China who were warm and friendly to us all. It will be interesting to see if it has affected our arrival and ship clearance in Hong Kong.
Hong Kong has enjoyed a special status (one nation, two systems) since the hand over from the British 10 years ago. They have their own legal system (the British one) and of course financially they are left pretty much on their own as a shop window and money maker for the Republic of China. They have been given a 50 year transition period so the question is will Hong Kong become more and more Chinese in that time or will the opposite be true and China become more Western. If Shanghai is anything to go by I vote for the latter.
Another question is 'will China replace the United States as a world power?' Think about it....empires have a way of falling eventually: Egyptian, Greek, Roman....jump to the British and now the enormous power of the United States. Unfortunately their commitment to save the world is breaking the bank.
Change of subject. One of our favourite stewards is leaving the ship today to fly home to the Phillipines. All ex-SAS-ites will remember Mandy in the faculty lounge bar. He is a brilliant bartender and we are all suffering from withdrawal. We went to say goodbye to him at 9 pm last night and I think his replacement (Maraya?) a delightful young woman, but without Mandy's special flare, was surprised to hear he would not be there this evening...she thought she had him for another day and there was a fleeting look of horror and panic when he said his plane left for the one and a half hour flight to Manilla this afternoon. She learned how to make a hot toddy last night, which she had never heard of. 'Hot toddy' said wih a Phillipino accent sounds very exotic! Fearing that I had a cold coming on that was my final libation for the night. Mandy gave me the option of having it with rum, brandy or Scotch. No prizes for guessing what I chose... should a hot toddy be made with anything except whisky? I think not....purist that I am.
No lights yet outside, just a very black darkness. I do hope we shall have good weather for HK, I am so looking forward to being there again. It's 5.45 am Back to bed and more later.
7.15 am....sailing into Hong Kong
Imagine dark hills, layer upon layer coming down to the sea and standing at the foot of them near the water tall pearl coloured skyscrapers, packed tightly together, row on row, with lights occasionally on in some of the thousand tiny windows, diamonds glittering. As we sail closer in to Kyloon we see different more creative shapes of buildings, smaller ships passing, cranes and anchored tugs....there a sampan styled motor boat, painted light blue, there a fishing vessel and on the shore now a mass of ochre and brown apartment buildings climbing the hills. This is a rich suburb, these are not massed together for the poor. Now a break in the density, just dark green hills and in the background a high almost-mountain. In Scotland it might be called Shehallion....the breast. Scotland is studded with shehallions.
Now an enclosed harbour of sampans and fishing boats, more jam packed skyscrapers in pinks and creams; meticulously built sea walls all along the shore and parks behind with lights hanging in the trees. Just as Las Vegas rises up in the middle of desert so Hong Kong rises out of the sea in dark green hills and surprises us. And here Liz was born 79 years ago....she has come full circle.
Cars and buses are running along the shore line, bright turquoise girders criss-cross and dark, shiny reflective office buildings that remind me of Toronto....we seem to be dashing in now...there are curved bridges spanning the water where we sail. There's a yellow double decker....probably originally London red... now the buildings show more character and shape.... these are still the outskirts I think. Here are apartments again, millions upon millions of homes....different lives and stories in each. They don't exude luxury, these are where ordinary people like us live their lives. There are some up on the hills which tower above the rest, like fingers pointing to the sky...imagine the views... more yellow buses and cars along the shore road... two ferries (Kowloon to the city?), it feels as though we shall simply plough right into down town! There I see SANYO bright red on a roof, there TOSHIBA in bright blue.
We're slowing down...
We are coming in to dock in Kyloon. From here we take the very short ferry ride to Hong Kong. As I write we are 'parking' slowly, our cabin on the port side facing the quay where the gangway will go down today from the 5th deck we are told. George has vanished, watching from some better vantage point
Ah....here he is. He feels he has brought the ship in ....apparently it was difficult docking because of high winds, however he has brought us in safely!!
Off to breakfast...more later..
It is 5.10 am Sunday with us and 4.10 pm saturday in Ontario.
We are sailing slowly into Hong Kong this morning arriving about 8 am.
The Chinese authorities in Shanghai kept us hours longer on the ship than we should have been because of the dicy relationship between China and the US at the moment. President Obama has given millions in aid for missiles to Taiwan and is also meeting with the Dalai Lama, neither action strengthening the precarious bond between the two countries. However this political stuff had obviously not filtered down to the people we met in China who were warm and friendly to us all. It will be interesting to see if it has affected our arrival and ship clearance in Hong Kong.
Hong Kong has enjoyed a special status (one nation, two systems) since the hand over from the British 10 years ago. They have their own legal system (the British one) and of course financially they are left pretty much on their own as a shop window and money maker for the Republic of China. They have been given a 50 year transition period so the question is will Hong Kong become more and more Chinese in that time or will the opposite be true and China become more Western. If Shanghai is anything to go by I vote for the latter.
Another question is 'will China replace the United States as a world power?' Think about it....empires have a way of falling eventually: Egyptian, Greek, Roman....jump to the British and now the enormous power of the United States. Unfortunately their commitment to save the world is breaking the bank.
Change of subject. One of our favourite stewards is leaving the ship today to fly home to the Phillipines. All ex-SAS-ites will remember Mandy in the faculty lounge bar. He is a brilliant bartender and we are all suffering from withdrawal. We went to say goodbye to him at 9 pm last night and I think his replacement (Maraya?) a delightful young woman, but without Mandy's special flare, was surprised to hear he would not be there this evening...she thought she had him for another day and there was a fleeting look of horror and panic when he said his plane left for the one and a half hour flight to Manilla this afternoon. She learned how to make a hot toddy last night, which she had never heard of. 'Hot toddy' said wih a Phillipino accent sounds very exotic! Fearing that I had a cold coming on that was my final libation for the night. Mandy gave me the option of having it with rum, brandy or Scotch. No prizes for guessing what I chose... should a hot toddy be made with anything except whisky? I think not....purist that I am.
No lights yet outside, just a very black darkness. I do hope we shall have good weather for HK, I am so looking forward to being there again. It's 5.45 am Back to bed and more later.
7.15 am....sailing into Hong Kong
Imagine dark hills, layer upon layer coming down to the sea and standing at the foot of them near the water tall pearl coloured skyscrapers, packed tightly together, row on row, with lights occasionally on in some of the thousand tiny windows, diamonds glittering. As we sail closer in to Kyloon we see different more creative shapes of buildings, smaller ships passing, cranes and anchored tugs....there a sampan styled motor boat, painted light blue, there a fishing vessel and on the shore now a mass of ochre and brown apartment buildings climbing the hills. This is a rich suburb, these are not massed together for the poor. Now a break in the density, just dark green hills and in the background a high almost-mountain. In Scotland it might be called Shehallion....the breast. Scotland is studded with shehallions.
Now an enclosed harbour of sampans and fishing boats, more jam packed skyscrapers in pinks and creams; meticulously built sea walls all along the shore and parks behind with lights hanging in the trees. Just as Las Vegas rises up in the middle of desert so Hong Kong rises out of the sea in dark green hills and surprises us. And here Liz was born 79 years ago....she has come full circle.
Cars and buses are running along the shore line, bright turquoise girders criss-cross and dark, shiny reflective office buildings that remind me of Toronto....we seem to be dashing in now...there are curved bridges spanning the water where we sail. There's a yellow double decker....probably originally London red... now the buildings show more character and shape.... these are still the outskirts I think. Here are apartments again, millions upon millions of homes....different lives and stories in each. They don't exude luxury, these are where ordinary people like us live their lives. There are some up on the hills which tower above the rest, like fingers pointing to the sky...imagine the views... more yellow buses and cars along the shore road... two ferries (Kowloon to the city?), it feels as though we shall simply plough right into down town! There I see SANYO bright red on a roof, there TOSHIBA in bright blue.
We're slowing down...
We are coming in to dock in Kyloon. From here we take the very short ferry ride to Hong Kong. As I write we are 'parking' slowly, our cabin on the port side facing the quay where the gangway will go down today from the 5th deck we are told. George has vanished, watching from some better vantage point
Ah....here he is. He feels he has brought the ship in ....apparently it was difficult docking because of high winds, however he has brought us in safely!!
Off to breakfast...more later..
Friday, February 19, 2010
Shanghai photos
I think most of these photos taken in Shanghai are self explanatory. Scenes from our balcony as we came in: along the Bund with Liz, George and Audrey, crowds in the Chinese shopping square, 1930's buildings in the French Concession, the empty dining room we sat in for our $50.00 meal. The Bund at night from our balcony and George among the New Year lanterns!
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