More about Lantau Island and Monastery

Thursday...continuing the story...

After a refreshing hour or so in the fishing village of Tai O we returned to the bus and were driven through green hills up to the largest bronze, sitting, outside Buddha, possibly in the world but certainly, and more probably, in China. We could see the bronze image as we approached from about a mile away, staring out to the horizon on top of a high hill. Standing directly beneath this wonderfully benevolent statue it's hard to take it all in. There is a shrine underneath the image where a small piece of bone, taken from the ashes of his cremation, lies encased in glass. A holy relic. We climbed two flights of stairs and queued to pass and gaze at the tiny, precious, reddish brown bone...to do so is to achieve peace and happiness we were told.

Our first stop after viewing the relic was (going literally from the sublime to the ridiculous) to make our way to "The biggest toilet in China" which our guide kept recommending that we do....quite paternalistic he was. "There are many, many, you won't have to wait at all' he said proudly in his very British English. Suffice to say that he was correct, this shrine is definitely geared to tourists.

We walked then to the nearby Buddhist monastery for a vegetarian lunch. We expected some peaceful place where we might sit cross legged on the floor being served by monks. Not so. We entered a large air conditioned restaurant and were served by a hundred waiters and waitresses. In the centre of each large round table was a wood carousel on which multiple steaming bowls were placed and from which we helped ourselves into even smaller bowls and ate the delicious offerings with plastic chopstickes and a little china spoon for soup. Apart from anything else it was a relief to sit down on comfortable chairs and drink lots of jasmine tea and iced water....the temperature had risen and, as we had had no way of knowing that it would, most of us were expiring in jackets and sweaters.

After lunch and a walk outside with George through peaceful little gardens spaced apart we again boarded the bus to be taken to the to a cable station from which we descended, eight at a time. in gondolas. We swung slowly down looking at fantastic views of green hills, huge reservoirs and finally the Hong Kong Airport where we could see planes taking off and landing and parked by the terminal like little white toys.

I thought about the fact that the stunning and graceful suspension bridges we had seen and all the superb roads and the gondola technology have all been produced by Hong Kong in a very short space of time. Apartment buildings are sprouting out of the ground on Lantau Island, housing some of the overflow from Hong Kong, which has absolutely nowhere to go but up or out to sea on reclaimed land. It seems that whenever the city fathers decide that some specific complex or building is required close to the city, more sea is drained and more land reclaimed. What is impressive is the speed with which each project is completed. No sooner thought of than up it goes. There's an awful lot of money in Hong Kong!

Where was I? oh yes.....

It had been a wonderful day but we were all glad to reach the Explorer and retreat to our cool cabins for a long drink and to put our feet up. We had an early supper followed almost immediately by boat drill.

We all performed dutifully and quietly and stood (almost) silently for what seemed like a very long time. Backs started to ache, an elderly woman was excused and escorted to her cabin, children were allowed to leave with their parents....and still we stood there. Eventually a voice came over the loudspeaker "would ------ from cabin number---- please come to the boat drill on deck 5?" This message was repeated a number of times...and still we stood there. We were due to sail at 8 pm and we wanted to watch our last light show of the Hong Kong harbour front at that time and to wave a sad goodbye to what for many has become a favourite port city...myself included. At last the miscreant was discovered. She had apparently lost her cabin key card, tried to get another from the purser's desk so she could pick up her life jacket. ( Of course it would make sense in an emergency to get oneself up to the boat deck stat where a life jacket would be given to anyone unable to access their own.) Once she was located we were permitted to 'stand down'. That poor student was no one's favourite person for a while.... topics of conversations come in all sizes!

We were able to wave Hong Kong a fond farewell (Ah me!) as the coloured lights and lasers beamed across the sky and flooded the buildings and the river in front of us. We watched as the tug pulled us out from the quay and picked up the pilot. We made great speed after that, past a million glowing skyscrapers, before finally reaching dark hills and the sea.

Today:

Global Studies turned today towards Vietnam and the Vietnam war. I remember watching newsreels of the war every night at supper time in Toronto, Nelson and Peterborough...I only trusted Walter Kronkite! I also remember fund raising to support draft dodgers in Nelson. That was when I experienced the first stirrings of passionate anti war feelings which have steadfastly remained a part of my belief system up to the present. I count myself an active anti war protester. I am remembering our 'baring witness' demonstration in the snow covered field at Lisbie's place in Flamborough...it felt like 20 degrees below zero...as we lay on the freezing ground, 24 naked women forming the peace sign. The Iraq war was about to begin...I suppose we hoped, like millions of others around the world, that if we made a strong statement, someone would listen. How naive we were.

By the way that brilliant idea went round the world from California so that the Baring Witness website filled with photos.... the Dundas View magazine showed one and The Hamilton Spectator...none! The original photo which inspired Lisbie and me was taken in Cape Town with Table Mountain as its back drop.

To get back to the voyage!

We had a moving presentation from two very emotional Vietnam veterans and one anti war protester from that time. Necessary I suppose but I wonder when it will be possible to move on from the guilt, pain and anger of that war and to concentrate on the present day and the people and country of Vietnam? I believe it is felt that the young must be made aware of the dreadful sufferings and loss on both sides: this presentation received a standing ovation from the young people on this ship.

Tonight we have our shipboard family to our cabin at 5.30 and then to supper together. It will be interesting to hear all their views and news...we haven't met for a few countries!

I'm not sure when I shall be on here again. We arrive in Saigon tomorrow morning and the next day we leave for an overnight trip to a coastal town north of Saigon....or Ho Chi Minh city if you must.