Ghana

Thursday 15th April

I knew Ghana a little: the heat and humidity, the bright light and the friendly, serious people...and yet I didn't know Ghana at all! It is no longer possible to say 'Here is down town Accra' or 'there is where we took our evening walk with Sheona' or even 'there is the supermarket where we did all our shopping.' Now there is a conglomeration of buildings and side streets and memorials to this man and that and I, personally, coud find absolutely nothing the least familiar. Was I disappointed? Perhaps a bit, but what I did find were thriving markets, unbelievable traffic (and pollution) in both Tema and Accra, pot-holed main roads, alot of English spoken everywhere, a heat I can just about tolerate in my old age and that I still only sweat from the neck upwards!

I heard others saying that they felt afraid in the markets because there was so much pressure from so many people. I found that I loved being with these people because when you smiled and said no thank you they became friendly 'What is your name?', 'Maggie. 'Ah Megeee, Mageee, where do you come from Magee?' 'Canada" 'Ah Ca-na-da! Where there is snooooow!' 'Yup' 'You are here long? Come, come this way is my shop' 'No thank you I'm going this way' 'Oh Madam I have beautiful material, you must see' 'Later perhaps, now I'm going this way' 'Ok Madam....see you later'.

And bargaining in Ghana is a breeze: for example...

'How much is this?'

Oh Madam this is 500 cedis' Huge laughter from me as I turn to leave,

'OK Ok Madam how much you want to give me?'

Maybe 100 cedis'

'Madam!!! I must make a livin' Come madam what is your highest price?'

'140'

'OK Madam I give you for 300' more laughter from me as I walk away....'Madam, Madam...I will give you for 250, 250.....and also this bracelet'

'200'

OK Madam....225'

'Ok, with the bracelet 225'

And he rushes to wrap it before you change your mind! You've got it down more than 50% and you've both had fun.

On our first day we went first to the Du Bois Centre and in case you are interested to see who that was i encourage you to read:

W. E. B. Du Bois - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Early life
Writings
Civil rights...
On scientific...
William Edward Burghardt Du Bois was an American civil rights activist, Pan-Africanist, sociologist, historian, author, and editor. Historian David Levering Lewis wrote, "In the course...

The to the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial built by a later president Jerry Rawlings (perhaps hoping that someone would do the same or him....but not much chance I think). Kwame Nkrumah had a vision of Africa that was greater than each individual country and was the first to win his country's independence from Britain. Hence the memorial.

When we were there the country was almost bankrupt, there were no basic foods (flour, butter, cheese. milk, butter etc). We used what little we could find locally and relied on gifts from colleagues in Nigeria who visited. You cannot imagine the excitement I felt on receiving from Kahinde Shofolo (the lawyer for the United Africa Company for whom John worked) a large block of cheddar cheese.....caviar and champagne would not have produced this euphoria! We also used tinned milk (evaporated) for Sheona and for our tea and coffee....I still enjoy the flavour. We had the greatest send off ever from the port of Takoradi when we left because only on board could our friends find the fresh foods we so take fore granted. They stayed on board for whichever meal came before we sailed....lunch I think it was! The Elder Dempster Line expected and granted this favour to those who were staying behind in Ghana.

There were at least two unsuccessful asassination attacks on Nkrumah himself. I remember John saying jokingly after one of them "Must have been a bloody bad shot"... we both gasped because our nearby open kitchen was full of people who might have reported us and deportation would have been the result. Families reported on each other and people were disappearing ...I am speaking mainly of Ghanaians...and there were police road blocks everywhere. It was my least happy time in the 20 years I spent in Africa. I longed to return to Nigeria which I loved but the choice in the end was ....guess where....Canada! There was just too much writing on the wall....

So as you can imagine i was excited and interested to return to this country. And in many ways it fulfilled happy expectations. We spent a day in Kakum National park as I have told you (have to put it in the blog....sorry!) swinging above the rain forest on a high "sky walk", sweltering heat for our outdoor lunch. Then the horrors and moving history of Elmina Castle, the last stopping place for thousands of slaves en route to the New World.

Yesterday, our last day, we drove to Torgorme Village for a welcoming ritual ceremony attended by all the members of the village, adults, children and babies. There were drums and singing and speeches of welcome in both English and Twi, followed by a naming ceremony for each one of us. My african name is Afi Tseke. This means Friday (day I was born) and 'Forgive'....that is never hold a grudge, forgive all. The male equivalent would have been Kofi Tseke. There are only seven male names in Ghana (remember Kofi Annan of the UN?), as there are only seven days of the week. Similarly for female names.

The ceremony was one of the loveliest times I have ever experienced in Ghana: wonderfully friendly people, beautiful lively children. I noticed that the women were more reserved and I wondered what they actually thought of the whole thing.....they probably had a million things to do! We watched the weaving of Kinte cloth and pottery making. Each of us received a little pot with our name written on it. I took lots of photos for Theresa Randles which you will find on http://semsteratsea3.blogspot.com/

We then visited a game reserve for a couple of hours. Lovely wide open African bush with rocky outcrops and a cave which required a rocky (Boulders!) climb to reach and on which I 'passed'....it was very hot. Apparently they saw a cave full of bats which I wasn't heart broken to have missed! The only other game we saw were Kop antelopes....a whole beautiful golden brown herd leaping away from us. There are no predators in the reserve so I presume they simply live to a ripe old age...

We returned to the ship by 5 'clock in time to celebrate and sing to Chris Hill for his birthday.

Today we are sailing towards Brazil but we're still hugging the west African coast. We hit some huge swells during the night and early this morning. Our bed moved several degrees back and forth (which I slept through but George did not) and shampoo bottles crashed into the bath making a dreadful racket. We seem to have reached smoother seas now....

I wonder....shall I ever see Africa again....? Please keep your fingers crossed.